Tasting Times – Hotel du Vin 06.11.14 – Will Gardener
The quality of the fizz set the tone for an excellent evening of fine food and wine matching. An impressive toasty nose introduced a tight reticent wine, the palate similarly full of promise, with power and obvious Pinot character. But this wine, as with all great young bottles was all about the finish. Dave was early on the Pol Roger Scent, Taittinger sneaked in with a mention but was soon discarded, I was flirting with Dom Perignon, and Bollinger RD and even Krug. The quality was screaming 2002, a wine of clear finesse with seemingly no more than ten years bottle age, it must be a good shout. The general consensus that Pinot was largely in play here, proved correct as Pol Roger’s Winston Churchill is dominated by the noble grape. The 2002 vintage certainly delivered again a very impressive cuvée – 96 pts.
The white wine was heavily chilled, needing plenty of hand warming and coaxing to develop anything more than its initial intense new oak. Again it was the finish that impressed. We all perceived the subtle approach here, a definite point of difference. Even by White Burgundy standards this wine glided effortlessly across the palate. Dave said it was almost like drinking Water, this sounds derogatory but I understood what he meant. There was little conversation for a while as the fine nuances kept all busy. We were erring towards Grand Cru as we couldn’t imagine a wine of this quality being a Premier Cru and if it was it would surely be more overt and powerful. Callum was spot on just before the bottle was revealed pronouncing it Chevalier Montrachet. I had it as a lean classic vintage 2008 or even 2010, it was in fact 2006 from Sauzet (95pts), a real treat and certainly capable of defining the character of a Grand Cru.
The two reds were poured with great anticipation, in my case to be paired with a delicious rack of lamb, which went particularly well with the style of the first of the pairing. I questioned its Bordeaux validity for a minute or two, but from then on I was firmly in that camp as was everyone; but which commune? There was certainly blackcurrant and an earthy character, mature Cabernet? Even a touch of surmaturite was it 1990? I was also thinking along the lines of Pessac, maybe Haut Brion, but it wasn’t too long before I was further north again specifically in the Northern Medoc, maybe Lynch Bages? There was a touch of rusticity here, Callum was considering Pichon Baron, Dave and Jerome were further north still, maybe St Estephe. We discussed in some detail the vintage, it was mature but surely not coloured enough for the eighties, I plumped for 2001, Dave was thinking 1997. Mark was divvying out little clues, which gradually honed us into Latour, 1994 (93 pts). It was quite a surprise, 1994 noted as a mean year, this showed lots of supple charm and generosity a very good if not great example of the chateau.
The second wine was much more of a mystery, a contrast, which was Marks plan. It was super sexy, with a very ripe silky palate, port like in character. This was not a wine for red meat, Dave commented probably better with Asian cuisine crispy duck and plum sauce. This was a lovely wine, a new experience, it took some help from Mark to confirm the fleeting suspicions that this was a Chateauneuf, full of wild strawberry, and a pronounced raisiny character. Amazing depth of fruit purity was its most beguiling quality. With very low yields and vines over 100 years old, Marcoux Vieilles Vignes 2003 (94pts) a fascinating wine from 90% Grenache. Another treat, with 100 points from Robert Parker. Mark had taken his duty seriously and pulled out some show stoppers for this Xmas edition.
I decanted the Croft 1960 (93pts) at about five o’clock, by nine o’clock it was singing, with lots of energy, lovely texture and plenty of spice. It foxed all but Mark with its age, Dave, Callum and Jerome had this less than 25 years old. Mark was on the right track erring with a secondary level Port House, Warre’s or Dow’s possibly from the seventies. It was a success especially with the excellent blue cheese.
Another great night, thanks to Hotel duVin for the excellent food and service, and of course to Mark for his continued generosity.
Blind Tasting Notes
2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill
Fine beads, lovely toasty notes, baby sick? Real charm on the nose with little secondary notes but seems to have some evolution, quite a full mouth feel. It’s fresh, volumous and fine in length. Still structured here, the extract on the back of the palate is very sizeable. Lots of power and richness in the mid-palate, it finishes very dry. I like this, big potential. Quite a superb finish. Very slight oxidation, a touch honeyed. A really exciting prospect may be Pol Winston or Bolly RD 2002. 96+/100 drink 2015-2030+.
2006 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru Sauzet
This has a distinctive Chardonnay nose, oaky, hints of petrol, a touch of pear, calm, this builds on the palate, subtle good texture, this could be fine. Puligny? Intense lime, even salty on the finish. This is a wine that draws you back, it is so svelte. I think this is Grand Cru, is it the subtlety? A really classy wine here the subtlety catches you out a bit. Maybe Bienvenus Batard? 95/100 drink now-2020+.
1994 Chateau Latour 1er Cru Pauillac
Good legs, quite deep, a touch of amber. Slightly overripe? 1990? This is open and blown up on the nose, maturity here. It’s got an earthiness, bordelesque style. Meaty, even touch a of Bovril. Is it Pessac, Haut Brion? Dense palate, good acidty here, chewy. It’s got spice too. Long tenuous finish, mouthwatering. Sour cherry? Could be Tuscan Cab. Positive evolution, works well with the Lamb, Northern Medoc, Lynch Bages? This is showing more pure fruited notes after a few minutes, must be a fine Bordeaux. 93/100 drink now-2022+.
2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Marcoux
This is sweeter on the nose, quite lovely, Ribera? Very ripe southern? This is very textured and sweet is it Chateau Neuf du Pape? Beaucastel? Spicy port-like. Hot, the nose is really incredible, so pure in cherry fruit. Decadent, raisiny is the key. This is a fascinating wine, not for food though. 94/100 drink now 2020+.
1960 Croft Vintage Port (Non Blind)
Good deep plum, the colour thins towards the rim and the amber is evident. Though this is still comparatively youthful for an over 50’s.The nose is full of Xmas cake and bright plumy fruit, with a raisiny edge, it’s clean and pure. The palate has plenty of texture and weight, though the mid-palate, generous but not heavy, light on its feet, with freshness and overall balance. Lovely spice on the finish this is certainly very good edging towards a great port. At it’s best with a good decade of drinking ahead yet. 93/100 drink now – 2040.
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Mark Pegler (Host), Will Gardener, Dave Gardener, Callum Gardener, Jerome Gardener.