By Isobel Salter
This cuvee is a powerful, pleasing vintage from Chambertin-Clos de Beze within the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin.
It is a complex wine with deep colour and great length on the palate. The aromatic palate is very rich and delicate, with a dominance of small black fruits and oriental spices. It is the epitome of finesse.
THE TERROIR
The plot is based in the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin, so these vines sit amongst the greats. And this quality is evident.
This grand cru appellation of Chambertin-Clos de Beze sits uphill from the Routes des Grand Crus. The soil is composed of scree particularly rich in limestone.
It is often described as the feminine alter ego of Chambertin. It represents the elegance and finesse of Gevrey-Chambertin.
THE VINTAGE
The 2017 vintage is incredibly complex, and variable. There are wines with very good concentration, yet they remain open and approachable – fine fruited, and more floral than most vintages.
2017 is both generous and good quality. Grapes were exceptionally healthy.
The vintage is strong across all producers, especially in the Cote de Nuits, with highlights from Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey St. Denis.
THE DOMAINE
Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of the shining starts of Burgundy. Four generations of the Rousseau family have worked tirelessly on some of the finest terroirs in the Cote de Nuits. They are highly regarded, and they have built this reputation over their longstanding history. They are one of the oldest domaines in Burgundy. Today, Eric, grandson of Armand, is in charge of the vines and cellar, alongside his daughter Cyrielle.
Founded at the start of the 20th Century by Gevrey native Armand Rousseau, the domaine initially owned small plots of vines throughout Gevrey-Chambertin. Over the next 100 years, under both Armand and his son Charles, the domaine acquired various grand cru vineyards. This included the coveted Clos Saint-Jacques vineyard. Charles was highly respected for his meticulous approach to viticulture and winemaking.
The domaine, based in Gevrey-Chambertin, sits among the greats of Burgundy. It covers 15 hectares, all of prized Pinot Noir vines. The farming here is traditional, with green harvesting where necessary to control yields. In the winery, 90% of the fruit is destemmed then fermented in open-topped stainless steel vats at controlled temperatures. The fruit is then gently pressed before being transferred to barrel for gentle ageing.
The domaine produces pale, finely structured wines of great elegance and stamina. The principles of old vines, and sensible yields dictate the Rousseau style. Oak is used sparingly. They like to blend young, and old vines together in the winemaking process. Sometimes the wines can appear light in their youth, but they take on weight as they age. Wines are then bottled in the spring time before their release on the market.
They continue to be one of the most respected, and sought-after producers in Burgundy. Highly coveted by collectors and Burgundy enthusiasts worldwide.
“A touch smoky, and that lovely chalky note. so fragrant. Then a powerhouse on the palate – there’s power but no aggression, like a chest puffed out or a balloon filled up: fine yet more voluminous. Dark fruited with just a hint of purple flowers. Incredible yet subtle perfume tangled up in the power, woven in with the fruit. Dark, spicy and rich on the long, long finish”
Jancis Robinson, 19/20
£14,500 IB OCC (6x75cl)
Link to buy: https://nickollsandperks.com/p/2017-domaine-armand-rousseau-chambertin-clos-de-beze-grand-cru-103380606111/
IB = In Bond | OCC = Original Cardboard Case