En Primeur 2025: Bordeaux back to its roots?

This year’s pre-tastings discourse was the opposite of the last. Quality was announced as high and the information touted, despite the lack of quantity produced, suggested that the Châteaux may finally understand the market and what is necessary to revive Bordeaux and the En Primeur campaign. We returned hopeful yet cautious.

Quality is indeed very high, in many cases great, with the better wines offering a unique blend of classicism and modernity. More than one estate described the 2025 vintage as a combination of 2016 and 2022. Before now, the two finest vintages we have had the pleasure of tasting En Primeur. However, the 2025 vintage is not homogenous, in terms of stature and/or style, with the region’s best terroirs unsurprisingly combating the challenging growing season to the best effect. Many wines will provide early drinking pleasure; some will need laying down.

The Growing Season

Oenologist Axel Marchal and his colleagues at the University of Bordeaux’s ISVV (Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences) outline five key climatic and physiological conditions for a great Bordeaux vintage:

Uniform flowering and quick fruit set, promoting a homogenous crop and strong yield potential.
A dry, warm late spring and early summer that encourages effective pollination and helps establish healthy vine growth.
As summer progresses, moderate water stress – particularly during a warm, dry July – slows vegetative growth and shifts the vine’s energy toward ripening the grapes.
Grapes reach optimal ripeness while maintaining freshness, avoiding a shutdown that can result from excessive heat and preserving active photosynthesis.
Dry, moderately warm conditions at harvest enable precise picking decisions and reduce the risk of dilution or rot, often supported by beneficial day-night temperature variation (high diurnal range).

The 2025 Bordeaux vintage fulfilled all the above conditions, the first vintage to do so since 2022. Despite this, the 2025 vintage was not plain sailing for Bordeaux vignerons, quite the opposite, in fact, with extreme conditions resulting in the smallest total production since 1991 (for the second year running).

“Yields were the lowest since 1991 when we froze.” Lilian Barton Sartorius – President of Château Léoville Barton

“Our yields were 15 hl/ha. Very low for us at Cheval Blanc.” Mael le Breton – Engineer in Viticulture & Oenology at Château Cheval Blanc and winemaker at Château Quinault l’Enclos

Winter was predominately dry. However, given the deluge of rain from the previous vintage, there was ample water to replenish the water table for the growing season. An early and even budburst followed, taking place in perfect, mild and dry conditions giving good potential for high production. The end of April saw a period of rain which aided the vines’ ability to source important nutrients, crucially nitrogen, on which vines would later rely. Fortunately, not enough rain to promote a significant mildew episode.

“There was an early budburst, two weeks ahead of the 10-year average. There was a bit of mildew pressure, with a high diurnal range keeping moisture, but there was much more serenity throughout the growing season compared to 2024.” Emma Le Bras – Head of Business Development, Château Canon

“The early rain helped the water table, which complimented the vines’ resilience. Without this, our yields would have been even lower!” Mael le Breton – Château Cheval Blanc

Flowering launched earlier than usual, advancing speedily and evenly. The result was a quality and generous fruit-set, which went some way to compensate for the low fertility of the shoot and the smaller number of bunches per plant, a result of the challenging 2024 conditions and a huge contributor to the low yields in 2025.

“Poor flowering conditions in 2024 affected the vines’ ability in 2025. It has a knock-on effect and is one of the reasons for lower yields.” Thibaut Richard – Commercial Director, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

Drought-like conditions continued into mid-June with hydric stress developing early in the vine cycle. As a result, the creation of skin polyphenols increased, meaning thicker skin to protect the vines from the sun. The vines’ limited uptake in nitrogen also resulted in a high ratio of pips and skins to juice, a key factor in high tannins levels in the resulting wines (IPT), as well as hydric stress.

“Our yields were 22 hl/ha. We lost 30% during hydric stress, removing berries.” Vanessa Colin MW – US Ambassador, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

Veraison began in early July but slowed due to dry conditions. It ended evenly at the end of July, boosted by welcomed rainfall. Despite this, only a small amount of rain was recorded in the region between May and July, limiting the growth in the size of the berries.

“To put it simply, hot and dry conditions result in smaller berries, which equals low yields.” Elena Barrasso – Hospitality at Domaine Clarence Dillon (Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Quintus)

August was extremely hot, with a two-week period averaging over 36 degrees Celsius giving 2025 the second-highest number of days recorded above 35 degrees (Below 2003 and above 2022) accelerating maturity. Crucially, nighttime temperatures remained cool, helping to preserve acidity. Miraculously, the weather shifted at the end of August, providing much needed rain. This provided grape swelling and dilution which benefited yields, prevented over-maturation, helped the final ripening of the skins and subdued rising alcohol levels. This was critical. On average, 2025 was the hottest recent vintage, apart from 2022. Hotter than 2003. The result, for many, was the earliest vintage on record.

“July and August were hot, August very hot, but very fresh nights, allowing the vines to rest and retain acidity.” Jean-Basile Roland – Commercial Director at Château Canon, Château Rauzan-Segla, Château Berliquet

“Cool nights throughout the growing season allowed for balance, regarding the acidity. Alcohol is around 13.5% which is low. This is because the rain came at the end of August and diluted the juice. This saved the vintage for us.” Elena Barrasso – Domaine Clarence Dillon

“Hydric stress started in May, which was OK because of the water table, but by July it was a problem. 60mm of rain at the end of August saved the vintage for us. The rain also helped dilute the berries and bring alcohol down. It also helped soften the skins, even though they were still thick.” Mael le Breton – Château Cheval Blanc

“2025 was the earliest vintage ever at Ch. Cos d’Estournel.” Baptiste Belly – Northern Europe Business Manager, Château Cos d’Estournel

Soils & Terroirs

Bordeaux’s superior soils and terroirs allow their vines to alleviate the most arduous of conditions. In an intense solar vintage, this often comes at the expense of a Chateaux’ DNA and personality. Remarkably, this is not the case in 2025. In fact, 2025 was a vintage that heightened the essence and clarity of terroir.

Vines located on St. Emilion’s limestone plateau, Pomerol’s blue clay, in proximity to the Gironde estuary or on Pessac-Leognan’s gravel over clay and limestone, for example, were able to control nutrient intake and produce grapes that ultimately created wines of classicism and dynamism. Astonishingly, some were able to maintain average yields. Similarly to the 2022 vintage, however, vines with warmer sand and gravels found the growing season even more tricky due to their proclivity to capture heat and struggled to preserve water.

“2025 is a terroir vintage. The clarity of our terroir in the wines is enhanced in this vintage.” Hortense Idoine-Manoncourt – Chair of the Board of Directors, Co-manager, Co-owner, Château Figeac

“The 2025 vintage exhibits THE DNA of Ch. Margaux.” Johana Loubet, Head of External Relations, Château Margaux

“The nice proportion of clay at Rauzan helped to keep freshness in the ground and help manage the heat. In 2025, you will see terroir reflected in the wines. Terroir and the recipe of the technical team. It is a DNA vintage.” Jean-Basile Roland – Château Rauzan-Segla

“The average age of vines is sixty years old, planted in clay and limestone soils. The roots go deeper to access the limestone which allows for water regulation.” Thibaut Richard – Commercial Director, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

“The river proximity at Las-Cases was so important. This helps to moderate heat and create balance.” Sophia Snodgrass – Head of Business Development and Marketing, Château Leoville Las-Cases

“40 hl/ha, which is average. There are now low yields at Ch. Canon because of our wonderful terroir.” Emma Le Bras – Château Canon

In the Vineyard

2025 posed a different challenge for vignerons compared to the previous vintage. There was no excess rain, hail, or frost, and an early bud burst, even flowering and even veraison suggested that the growing season was straightforward. However, this was not the case and for some, the challenges verged on catastrophic.

As mentioned, 2025 was on average hotter than all recent vintages, apart from 2022. It was also very dry but crucially saw more rainfall than other hot vintages; 2022 and 2003, for example. This extreme heat and drought meant that vignerons had to remain extra vigilant, proactive and precise throughout the vine cycle to ensure a balance between physiological ripeness and sugar ripeness.

Active canopy management was vital throughout, with vignerons opting to reduce the defoliation of vines in a bid to protect grapes whilst reducing the pace of the maturation process, enhancing complexity development. Some purposefully allowed vines to grow taller than usual to create shade, helping to protect berries from the heat.

“Canopy management was very important and helped protect the vines and the berries from the sun and heat. Detailed picking was very important in 2025. Technical analysis tells us when the grapes are ripe, but we have to taste the grapes to know when the aromatics are there, which develops afterward.” Hortense Idoine-Manoncourt – Château Figeac

“Canopy management was key. We purposefully trained the vines to grow taller than usual to create shade.” Sophia Snodgrass – Château Leoville Las-Cases

“Cold and dry winter, wet spring, especially in April. We had to fight mildew pressure, which is always a threat. We did this by thinning the canopy, but not too much, as we had to anticipate extreme heat and not risk overly exposing grapes further on in the cycle. This proved to be the correct decision… Maintaining competition in the vine slows down the ripening; phenolic and sugar and allows for complexity to develop, so keeping the canopy and clusters is a good idea in hot vintages.” Jean-Basile Roland – Château Rauzan-Segla

Other techniques were also used to combat the extreme conditions. Noé Tesseron of Château Pontet-Canet informed us that they sprayed kaolin clay on berries, which acts as a sunscreen, as well as spraying chamomile on the vines to reduce stress. Both biodynamic practices. In some cases, irrigation was permitted, emphasising just how severe and persistent the drought conditions were.

“We had to irrigate younger vines, and we were granted permission to do so, because of the complications.” Elena Barrasso – Domaine Clarence Dillon

Despite the above techniques, 2025 proved to yield the lowest crop since 1991. The excessive heat and drought led to stunted, very small, even overripe berries that had to be removed from the vineyard.

“Low yields is another thing that marks this vintage. 22 hl/ha. Average is around 40 hl/ha. The lowest volumes in the last 100 years.” Johana Loubet – Château Margaux

As ever, picking dates was also of the utmost importance. The skins of the grapes, left too long, built up too much tannin. The skins of the grapes picked too early didn’t fully ripen, resulting in undeveloped complexity in the final wine.

In the Winery

In addition to challenges posed in the vineyard, winemakers also faced potential complications during the production process. Further sorting and removal of berries was necessary, depleting potential yields. The densimetric baths that were used to remove underripe grapes based on sugar density in 2024 were now used to remove overripe grapes.

The grapes that made it were of extremely high quality, possessing a wonderful balance between physiologically and sugar ripeness. Nevertheless, due to a high ratio of pips and skin to juice and moderate alcohol levels, tannins management was of concern. Tannins are an essential constituent part of red Bordeaux and in a year like 2025, with record high levels, it was imperative to manage them skilfully. Winemakers who mastered tannin extraction achieved a sublime, powdery silkiness – perhaps the finest on record. Conversely, those who missed the mark produced wines defined by aggressive, astringent textures.

Ultra gentle, cooler and longer fermentations were the order of the day and helped polymerise and soften tannins as well as preserving fruit. Pumping over was kept to a minimum, if at all, with pneumatage or the air pulse technique more common.

“The alcohol is very low, meaning we had to adapt the extraction and do it for one week more than usual to prevent the wines being hollow.” Thibaut Richard – Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

“No pumping over, we used the air pulse technique for an extra gentle extraction.” Sophia Snodgrass – Château Leoville Las-Cases

“The temperature during maceration and extraction was lower than usual because of the smaller berries. 26 degrees as opposed to 28 degrees. It was softer and longer.” Charles Lassus – Château La Conseillante

“82 IPT, which is higher than the 2022 vintage! But you don’t feel it, as the oak aging helped to polymerise and polish the tannins.” Thibaut Richard – Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

Despite the warmth of the growing season, alcohol levels remained notably tempered, with many estates clocking in around the 13.5% mark. Some below. This is a result of early on-set hydric stress limiting sugar accumulation, naturally curbing potential alcohol.

“Sugar accumulation begins at the start of flouraison and stops at veraison. The heat slowed the photosynthesis, meaning the vines could only work to 70%. This is why there was less sugar accumulation, lower alcohol, and ultimately why such an incredible balance was achievable.” Thibaut Richard – Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

Style & Quality

Today, Châteaux have the ability to adopt extreme precision in and outside the winery, where vignerons can vinify individual parcels separately based on their needs to ensure hyper-specific quality control. This modern objective allows winemakers to maximise aromatic intensity and colour while maintaining a delicate touch during tannins extraction. A philosophy that dictates a more restrained approach to oak aging, favouring balance over heavy wood influence. A motif of the 2025 vintage.

Unsurprisingly, the Châteaux were very happy with the quality of their wines, with several proclaiming their wines were among the finest produced at their respective Châteaux.

“For me, 2025 offers a combination of 2022’s richness and 2016’s freshness.” Emma Le Bras – Château Canon

“We have a great vintage. Small, but great in quality. Similar stylistically to 2016 and 2020.” Guillaume Thienpont – Technical Director at Vieux Château Certan and Le Pin

“Everything is sugar-coated this year. A magical vintage!” Constance Durantou – Château L’Eglise-Clinet

“2025 is a unicorn wine.” Vanessa Colin MW – Château Ducru Beaucaillou

“2020 and 2016 are closer comparisons than 2022. But with more precision in the wine. 2025 will go down as an iconic vintage at Ch. Rauzan-Segla. Definitely in the higher echelons of great vintages.” Jean-Basile Roland – Château Rauzan-Segla

“The 2025 has everything that the 2022 has, with an extra layer of sapidity and salinity.” Arnaud Frédéric – Château Montrose

“The 2025 is a unique vintage in terms of its balance. We cannot compare this balance. This is a vintage that will surprise people. A vintage of clarity.” Thibaut Richard – Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

“A unique vintage. This wine is close to 2016 stylistically, but with more elegance and delicacy. And lower alcohol.” Baptiste Belly – Château Cos d’Estournel

What we can confirm is that 2025 marks a continuation of Bordeaux’s modern precision era and as a result, we have tasted some of the finest young Bordeaux wines we have ever had the privilege of tasting.

Stylistically, 2025 is certainly a throwback to yesteryear, with generally much lower alcohol than recent fine vintages, like 2016 in this respect. It somehow combines an effortless balance between moderate alcohol with an extremely rich, ripe and fresh profile, as well as terroir transparency. This is not something that the Bordeaux intelligentsia were able to draw comparisons on, and like so often is the case, during our tastings, we soon knew we were dealing with a unique, newborn vintage.

Our early impression is that 2025 doesn’t reach the stratospheric levels as consistently as 2022. However, it does reach those heights surprisingly often, and it will be fascinating down the track to pitch these two vintages against each other at respective Châteaux. It is also significant that there are great wines in every individual commune.

In general, the wines have a charming profile, with a silky mouthfeel and vibrant fresh acidity. They will be approachable early but long-lived too.

The Market

Bordeaux finds itself at a pivotal moment. Years of ambitious En Primeur pricing have weighed on buyer confidence, leaving sentiment subdued. At the same time, global economic uncertainty persists, with interest rates still more likely to rise than fall. On a more encouraging note, the fine wine market has shown signs of resilience in recent months, even amid geopolitical tensions such as the US-Iran conflict.

In our discussions with Château owners, commercial teams, and technical directors, there is clear awareness of the challenges facing Bordeaux, the En Primeur system, and the wider fine wine market. There is also broad recognition that competitive pricing will be essential for a successful campaign. In our view, releases should be positioned close to 2024 levels. While some producers are likely to embrace this approach, as they have done on the back of previous global crisis (Iraq war and the 2008 financial crisis), others may not – largely due to the significantly reduced volumes. Those that do, however, will present a compelling proposition: a high-quality, at times exceptional, vintage offered at attractive prices. A rare and exciting combination.

We anticipate another short and fast-moving campaign, with the first major release expected on Wednesday, 29th April (Château Pontet-Canet). If you would like guidance navigating the releases or selecting wines, please feel free to get in touch, the team at N&P would be delighted to help.

Will’s Picks – Top 10 quality

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 97-99/100

This is very deep in colour, the nose is like a bottomless pit, brooding and enticing, elegant and reserved, impressive concentration of dark berry perfume. The palate is muscular but detailed with sensational mouthfeel and sapidity, really amazing, seamless for me just a powerhouse of expression. Quite lovely, can’t feel the tannins they are so polished. This is the finest Carmes Haut Brion I have had the privilege to taste. 82 ipt. 97-99/100 – Drink 2033-2070+

Château Léoville-Las Cases 97-99/100

Very deep colour. Great perfume here, deep and seriously enticing with a darker profile than many. Black fruit with earthy granite, quite singular. The palate is quite stunning, just a huge block, brimming with tension, formidable but not intrusive on the mouth, so natural and elegant, very tightly wound, complex this is surely one to beat. So harmonious and appetising. Great energy. 97-99/100 – Drink 2035 – 2070+

Château Montrose 96-98/100

Promisingly deep robe, this has a beautifully elegant nose with pink rose, iron filings, violet, fresh deep and powerful, great purity and classicism. The palate is lovely and silky with an explosion of the minerality at the edges, it sits so well, contemplative. There is a an impressive sapidity on the finish here. Classic Montrose. Unravels so slowly and confidently. A great Bordeaux wine and a Montrose to challenge the very best. 96-98/100 – Drink 2037-2070+

Château Cos d’Estournel 96-98/100

Seriously deep purple. Intense floral notes, of rose petal and lilac, with red fruit purity, raspberry and strawberry. There is very nice coolness here on the palate, giving a luxurious silky mouthfeel. This is notably fine, really very polished and classy. Feels like a gentle extraction, dusty finish very calm. Takes its time. Great wine here. This could be the greatest Cos D’Estournel I have tasted EP. Drink 2037-2070+

Château Margaux 96-98/100

Quite deep colour for a Chateau Margaux EP, deep, ripe berry notes, lovely aromatic clarity, so clean like fresh sparkling mineral water, no jammy notes here, cool precision, very concentrated with an admirable mouthfeel, quite structured though with plenty of freshness on the grippy finish, very long and vanilla inflected. This is a classic expression of Chateau Margaux, no frills here just great reserved elegance. Set for a long life. 96-98/100 – Drink 2040 – 2075

Château Lafite-Rothschild 96-98/100

Very deep intense colour. The nose is an intense block of deep berry fruit with a touch of leather, complex traits of graphite and minerality, very elegant and vertical on the nose, quite strict yet the freshness comes through, touch of balsamic. On the palate is very voluptuous and tightly woven, coating the mouth with gentle Asian spice tinged tannins. Leaves the palate very juicy. Salty grip. Very long. Certainly a great 96-98/100 – Drink 2037 – 2070

Château La Conseillante 96-98/100

At the Chateau. Quite normal yields here favoured by the clay terroir. A new addition of 10% young Cabernet Sauvignon vines introduced into the blend for the first time since 1970.

Great deep colour, serious on the nose, touch of bramble, smokey, intense, iron, very fresh here, soapy floral perfume, very elegant, very cool here too on the palate, very good silk, nicely judged extraction, grippy finish, sechuan, great tension. Great overall lasting impression. This is mesmerising stuff, it is quite surprising but this might just eclipse the 2022. 96-98/100 – Drink 2035 -2065+

Vieux Château Certan 96-98/100

Good deep colour here, lots of minerality, maybe a touch of clove, certain intensity in the aromatics, floral, great clarity here, great verticality of aromatics, the signature of the vintage, but breadth too here, the flavour on the palate follows the nose, lovely balance, gentle but so much grip here and length. Right on the edge of fruit maturity. The precision here is remarkable as usual. Certainly a very fine VCC could it be the new benchmark? 96-98/100 – Drink 2038 – 2075

Château Canon 95-97/100

Deep robe for the estate which is not usually the darkest, the nose is very perfumed and floral, fruit salad, very elegant as always, no bonanza, the hallmark limestone salty minerality comes through, the freshness is remarkable, zingy like bath salts, humming with tension. Charming and ample fruit. This is a great wine, the estate believe better than 2016 & 2022, and is perhaps a hybrid of these two great years. Drink 2036 – 2075

Château Valandraud 95-97/100

Extremely deep colour, one of the darkest of all. This is old school, very vanilla pain aux raisin, great purity aromatically. Perennially richer than most can reach and in this vintage it works brilliantly supported so well by the freshness. The palate is very concentrated, super silky, gorgeously disarming, this doesn’t feel part of the 2026 campaign but who cares it is a beauty. If you like decadent wine this is for you. Antithesis of Canon. I think you need both. 95-97/100 Drink 2035 – 2065+

Callum’s Picks – Top 10 quality

Château Montrose 98-100/100

Expressive nose with precise, perfumed wild berries and black cherry fruit expanding from the glass, followed by milk chocolate, sweet spice, orange zest and a saline minerality. Complex.
The palate is vibrant, pure and layered, with black cherry and black currant fruit resting on silky tannins. The tension, energy and togetherness here is remarkable. Confident and assured.
The finish is ultra long with a savoury, saline minerality flavour persisting. A beguiling combination of power and finesse. Harmonious. I cannot fault this wine. Drink 2035-2070+

Château La Conseillante 98-100/100

Deep ruby colour, with the signature violet hue. The nose is deep and perfumed, classically La Conseillante. Rose petals, violet and lavender-laden blue fruit delicately unfurl from the glass, followed by a clove, orange zest, tobacco and cocoa. The palate is electric, with an incredibly silky mouthfeel. Cool and textured black and juicy watermelon fruit glides accross the palate, resting on a ripe, yet classic tannin structure. The finish is long, mineral and savoury with a Sichuan pepper spice persisting. This is a classy wine. Confident, composed and effortlessly balanced. Marielle Cazeaux proving, once again, why she is one of the finest winemakers in the world Drink 2040-2070+

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 97-99/100

Super deep and dark. The nose is incredibly expressive with concentrated black currant, cassis and damson aromas jumping out of the glass, followed by anise, black pepper, sweet spice and cocoa.
Supercharged. The palate is electric, with extraordinary energy. Layered ripe black and blue fruits on the mid-palate elegantly rest on silky tannin. The tension is in the charts, like a coiled spring. The finish is very long, with a saline sapidity. Impressive harmony. Multidimensional. Iron fist in a velvet glove. Drink 2031-2065+

Château Lafite-Rothschild 97-99/100

Deep ruby, with purple hues. Classic Pauillac and classic Lafite nose, with graphite, pencil shavings and earth aromas unwinding from the glass followed by sichuan pepper and anise-covered black currant and black berry fruit, followed by lilac perfume. Very confident, assured and serious. Complex. The palate is vibrant with cool, dark fruit at the core. Very together and tightly wound. A very serious and dark profile. The finish is extraordinarily long with a fresh, saline and savoury note continuing. This is a classic Lafite broad and foursquare. This wine reminds me of the 2022 Las-Cases which was my wine of the vintage… Drink 2045-2080+

Château Léoville-Las Cases 97-99/100

A super concentrated and expressive nose. Precise and perfumed black and blue fruits, Turkish delight, sweet spice, milk chocolate and hazelnut pour out of the glass. The palate shows fantastic energy, with textured black currant, black cherry and blueberry fruit balanced by a citrus minerality and a satin-like tannin structure. Multifaceted with power and delicacy. Balance and togetherness. This will challenge the outstanding 2022 vintage. In fact, I would say this wine possesses more of the Las-Cases style. Drink 2035 – 2070+

Château Canon 97-99/100

Incredible intensity on the nose, with vibrant, perfumed and creamy red and black fruit aromas pouring from the glass – black berry, black cherry, raspberry, fresh rhubarb – followed by cocoa, nougat and a white pepper spice.
Captivating. The palate is equally electric, with vibrant citrus minerality piercing through fresh pear, watermelon and black cherry fruit underpinned by silky tannin. The finish is long with a savoury, saline mineral flavour persisting. This is an outstanding Canon with a tension and verticality I have not seen from this estate before – and I have tasted some outstanding wines from this property. This is the finest young Ch. Canon, I have had the privilige of tasting. Drink 2035-2070+

Vieux Château Certan 97-99/100

Classic VCC perfume immediately wafts from the glass – violet, lilac, lavender – followed by precise sweet spice, anise, black currant, black cherry, red plum, fresh rhubarb and a saline minerality. Impressive, expressive and sophisticated. The palate is dynamic, with concentrated licorice covered black fruits gently resting on filigree tannin. Outstanding energy and tension. The finish is long with subtle dried fruit and a tamarind spice flavour persisting. This wine has breadth, depth and verticality. Crystaline. One of the finest VCC I have tasted. Drink 2035-2070+

Château Cos d’Estournel 97-99/100

Fresh, vibrant and perfumed. Elegant rose petals, lilac and peony aromas waft from the glass, followed by boysenberry, black cherry, black currant, cassis, clove and vanilla. Regal. The palate is pure, with an extraordinary silky and velvety texture. Cool and textured dark berry fruit floats across the palate lying on silky tannin. Multidimension with ulitmate harmony. The finish is long and saline. This is an outstanding Cos d’Estournel. The finest I have ever tasted, including 2016. Drink 2036-2070+

Château La Mission Haut Brion 96-98/100

Deep and dark color. The nose is complex with violet perfumed dark berry fruit unfurling from the glass, followed by anise, cocoa, walnut skin and black olive tapenade. Orange zest and stem ginger too. Very La Mission. The palate is fresh, silky, textured and concentrated. Layered dark berry fruit as per the nose. Satin like tannins. The finish is long with an energising spice. There is incredible breadth, depth and composure here. This wine is very together, nothing is out of place. Confident. Excellent. Drink 2040-2075+

Château Margaux 96-98/100

Deep ruby color. A classically perfumed and aromatic Margaux, typical of the estate and its appellation. Aromas of perfumed blueberries, blueberry liquor, sweet spice and toast unwind from the glass. Calm and composed. The palate is vibrant, with fresh and elegant cool fruit offset by a silky, saline tannin structure. There is an impressive tension at the core. The finish is long with a saline minerality persisting. This is a classy Margaux that possesses superb depth and effortless harmony. Drink 2040-2070+

Will’s Picks – Top 10 value

Château Rauzan-Ségla 95-97/100

Nice Deep purple almost to the rim, the nose is very elegant and open but not jammy at all, narrow in fact but intense, with delicate floral notes and toasty damson fruit and dark chocolate. The palate is really impressive in its density but cool precision, which carries the superb flavours long into a very vertical expression. Leaves the palate wanting more with good grip and tension. This narrowly missed my top 10, a brilliant showing particularly at the chateau with Jean-Basile Roland instructing, reminds me of 2020 with more refinement and harmony. 95-97/100 – Drink 2036 – 2060+

Château Brane Cantenac 95-97/100

Very deep brooding colour immediately pronounces lovely pure floral aromatics here, with a touch of blue ink, and defined cassis. The palate is super polished, with very good concentration, almost Syrah like, this is a big powerful extracted wine but it’s not in any way aggressive, all remains in tune. Impressive stuff and very Brance Cantenac. The chateau DNA is on full display this year. 95-97/100 – Drink 2038 – 2070+

Chateau Léoville Poyferré 95-97/100

Super deep colour here as anticipated, wet paint concentration her on the nose, almost impenetrable, this is full throttle, impressive floral notes with a complex concoction of orange peel and smoky blackcurrant fruit, this is quite extracted almost California style, the palate is very poised this is a ripe beast with great silky weight, big dark chocolate tannic structure here almost numbing. Maybe lacks the obvious freshness of some as it is obviously quite extracted but you have to admire the ambition. Very Poyferre and potentially a benchmark wine. Drink 2038 – 2075

Domaine de Chevalier 93-95/100

Deep purple, attractive pure and classic aromatics, earthy mineral inflected berry fruit, good salty intensity, I like the elegant profile here, though the richness of the fruit is equally notable. The palate is very silky; this has precision and excellent classic Bordeaux flavour. Very good showing and potentially a great DC. Adrian Bernard explained that his father had put the 2025 at the same level as their 2010, 2018 & 2022 and amongst the finest vintages of the past two decades. As usual this gets my nod a great value, I’m enjoying the 2000 vintage at the moment which also delicious! 93-95/100 – Drink 2035 – 2055

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry 93-95/100

Deep purple robe, this is quite lovely on the nose, marked by red fruit, very ripe and rich, milk chocolate and a hint of cedar and cinnamon. The palate is nicely cool and silky with fine balancing freshness and solid grip. This is unsurprisingly fine and a relative bargain standing out once again in the commune of Margaux. 94-96/100 – Drink 2033 – 2060+

Château Langoa Barton 92-94/100

Deep purple here, this is elegant with nice fresh aromatics of redcurrant-tinged fruit along with notes of pear and rose petal. An impressive fresh tension on the palate, lashings of balancing tangy fruit, damson. Classic wound and pure. Not overripe at all, brilliant effort in 2025. Such a reliable property and definite value offering. 93-95/100 – Drink 2035 – 2050

Château Marquis D’Alesme 92-94/100

Deep colour, more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend here and it shows with cedar and cardboard, complex aromatics, the palate is nicely silky, this is very well in tune today with lovely pure red fruit and well-judged extraction. Very fine for the estate. Harmonious. Faint sechuan spice on the finish. I can’t think that I have tried a more agreeable Marquis D’Alesme and a great value choice. 92-94/100 – Drink 2034 – 2050+

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion 92-94/100

Deep colour, clean expression of pure berry fruit here on the nose, no sense of over maturity but good open with good breadth. The palate is creamy, and very calm, good salty mineral finish. Just great balance here it is one of the best Pessac Leognans and for me a relative bargain in 2025. 92-94/100 – Drink 2033 – 2045+

Château Balastard La Tonnelle 92-94/100

Quite pronounce depth of colour here, promising open aromatics, very rich damson and blackberry fruit, the palate good weight is good too, very fresh ride with dusty tannins this feels like a great success for the estate which is normally under the radar. 92-94/100 – Drink 2033 – 2048

Château La Croix du Gay 91-93

Nice deep plum, the aromatic profile here is lighter red fruits, strawberry, quince good purity and intensity, touch of blue ink. The palate has good silk, generous, a lowish 24 hl, benefitting this year from a lighter extraction. All in tune it feels like a great success for the property. Stylish. Excellent early drinker and relative value. 91-93+/100 – Drink 2031 – 2045+

Callum’s Picks – Top 10 value

Château Rauzan-Ségla 95-97/100

Deep ruby. The nose is vibrant and concentrated with the classic Margaux perfumed fruit unfurling from the glass – black currant, black cherry – followed by candied strawberry and cherry (cherry drops). The palate is vibrantly fresh, with ripe and textured black and red fruits coming through, all balanced by a fine yet classic tannin structure. The finish is long and mineral. This is a very serious and complex Rauzan-Segla that is muscular in stature, yet elegant and possesses impressive balance. It is one of the finest I have had the pleasure of tasting. Drink 2036-2070+

Château Montlandrie 92-94/100

There is slightly more clarity and precision on the nose compared to its stablemates, with perfumed black cherry and damson fruit pouring from the glass, followed by milk chocolate, cocoa powder and toast. The palate is fresh, with saline laden and juicy black fruit leading the way. The tannin are silky but present. A bigger structure here than its table, as usual. A very well-made Montlandrie that punches well above its price tag. An excellent wine. Drink 2030-2050+

Château La Gaffelière 94-96/100

Deep and dark. The nose offers earthy black currant and black cherry fruit, followed by damson, milk chocolate, stem ginger, orange zest and walnut skin. Very complex. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with silky black cherry and currant fruit gliding in harmony across silky tannin. Elegant and very together. The finish is long with a savoury toast persisting. An excellent La Gaffeliere that always offers great value for money. Drink 2036-2055+

Château Marquis d’Alesme 93-95/100

An open and expressive nose, brighter than its stablemate (Labegorce). Vibrant black cherry and raspberry aromas appear, followed by nutmeg, cinnamon and almonds. Cherry bakewell tart. The palate is super fresh and offers cool and textured black cherry fruit, with excellent tension at the core. The tannins are ripe and silky. The finish is very mineral, impressively so and exceptionally long. A very well-balanced Marquis d’Alesme. The finest Marquis d’Alesme I have tasted. Drink 2031-2050+

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry 93-95/100

Deep and dark. A classic Margaux nose with perfumed dark fruits unwinding from the glass, followed by milk chocolate, earth and oregano. Precise and elegant. The palate is fresh with concentrated, perfumed covered black fruit resting on a fine tannin structure. The finish is long with minerality lifting freshness. Very well-balanced. One of the finest Malescot’s I have tasted. This will offer great value for money. Drink 2035-2060+

Domaine de Chevalier 95-97/100

Medium ruby. A proper nose, classic Domain de Chevalier and classic Pessac. Precise and layered dark fruit, cassis, earth and tobacco aromas calmly unfurl from the glass, followed by clove and star anise. Complex. The palate is fresh and concentrated with a superb tension. Black and red fruit flavors move into toffee, caramel and fruit salad sweets. Very together and harmonious. The finish is long with a saline minerality persisting. A wonderful balance between power and elegance. This is a fantastic DDC. One of the finest I have tasted. Drink 2036-2070+

Château La Dominique 93-95/100

Dark ruby. Lifted now, with eucalyptus coated black and red currants, rose petals, Turkish delight and cocoa. A very attractive nose. Fresh and rich. The palate is fresh with juicy black and red fruit sitting on top of a fine tannin structure. Finish is long with a saline toast. This is a very well put-together La Dominique with an impressive elegance and effortlessness. Balanced. Drink 2031-2050+

Château Lagrange 93-95/100

A classically elegant Lagrange nose, strikingly so after the powerful Gruaud Larose. Sweet spice covered black and red, cherry and berry fruit on the mid-palate, followed by dried herbs, cocoa and toffee. The palate is fresh, elegant and together. The savoury tannin structure lifts the freshness. Good length on the back. This is an excellent Ch. Lagrange. One of Bordeaux’ great values. Drink 2033-2070+

Château Gruaud-Larose 95-97/100

A big and expressive nose with heaps of ripe, black fruit aromas jumping out of the glass, followed by licorice (black jack sweets), sweet spice and cream. The palate is silky, with textured, concentrated, cool dark fruits at the centre. The tannic structure is firm and powerful but not unbalanced. The finish is long and mineral. This is a classic Gruaud Larose. Masculine, powerful. It will need time. A great Gruaud Larose in the making. Drink 2040-2070+

Château Malartic Lagravière 93-95/100

Deep ruby. Blackberry and currant fruit slowly unfurl from the glass, followed by earth and gravelly damson and dried fruit. Cinnamon too. A dark profile. The palate is vibrant and silky, with a candied dried fruit coming through. There is an impressive tension and elegance in this wine that sets it apart from its neighbors. Tannins are silky and the finish long. A fantastic Malartic Lagraviere. One of the finest I have tasted. Drink 2033-2070+