To put it simply, a Grower Champagne is one which is produced by the estate which owns the vineyards on which the grapes are grown. It essentially operates like a small business, where the owners are responsible for production from vine to bottle. The results tend to be more reflective of their distinct vineyards and style – this is the heart of what makes them so compelling.
There are three general classifications of Champagne producers, these are Maisons, Cooperatives and Vingerons. Maisons are the largest category in terms of imports, and all the big names you tend to recognise like Bollinger or Moet fall into this category. This type of producer buy their grapes from various growers all over the region, then blend them to produce a house style, and ultimately produce enough bubbles to satisfy drinkers all over the world.
Cooperatives are typically wines from a specific village in Champagne, where growers who are not necessarily equipped to produce all their own Champagne, can opt into a co-op. Usually, growers supply their grapes, and a chief winemaker would then produce the wine – these are typically labelled with ‘CM’ for ‘Cooperative Manipulant’.
The word ‘Vigneron’ roughly translates to winegrower, or someone who cultivates a vineyard for winemaking. These are the people who produce Grower Champagne, from their own parcels of vineyards, blended in small lots. The results are wines which offer distinctive, varying tastes from year to year.
The Grower Champagne movement is still relatively new, but it has really gained momentum in recent years as people have begun taking note of where the products they purchase actually come from. There are 19,000 growers in the Champagne region, with most of these selling to Grand Marque houses or cooperatives, it is interesting to take a closer look at those choosing to produce under their own name. This movement has also seen a focus on organic farming methods, use of indigenous wild yeast and minimal intervention in the vineyards. The taste of the terroir is prioritised over branding.
In my opinion, the Grower Champagne is one of the most exciting, vibrant and progressive in today’s fine wine landscape. The very nature of their production allows for experimentation and flexibility – all done with the goal of producing interesting, enjoyable Champagne.
Here at Nickolls & Perks, we are proud importers and purveyors of many Champagnes from several different producers of exquisite, artisanal Grower Champagne. I have chosen a few Growers to highlight, and linked some of my own picks from their portfolios (all of which are available on our website, as well as in our Stourbridge store).
Gamet
Maison Gamet has been family run for successive generations. In 1990, Fabienne and Phillippe settled in Mardeuil and set out to develop the notoriety of the estate. In 2018, their children Marianne and Jean-Francois joined the business, and they have been actively growing ever since. Today, the two generations work together combining tradition and modernity, and wisdom and ambition.
Their vineyards span both sides of the Marne River. On the right bank, the vines take in the sun, surrounded by forest bringing in freshness and moderate temperatures. Their Rive Droite cuvee originates from grapes grown in this plot. It offers elegance and finesse, with notes of lemon, quince, almond and frangipane. On the left bank, the climate is more serene with richer soils. This brings a delicate minerality to the Rive Gauche cuvee. This wine boasts notes of peach, quince and floral notes with a harmonious finish.
Their diverse terroir allows for an interesting portfolio of Champagnes in varying styles, each which reflects the soil, varietals and attention to detail of the producer. The Caracteres cuvée is the epitome of their precision. Crafted from grapes from 2 terroirs; Damery and Fleury la Riviere, then aged for 5 years on the lees, and with the inclusion of a 1999 perpetual reserve wine. It provides pleasant notes of oxidation, followed by a long freshness attributed to the citrus character. It surprises drinkers with its complexity and richness, showing Meunier at its best.
View all wines from Maison Gamet here
Marguet
Champagne Marguet is dedicated to working in harmony with nature and producing excellent wines through biodynamic practices. The business now sits in the fifth generation of the family, with Benoît at the helm. He brought his own philosophy into the vineyards and the cellar. He believes strongly in encouraging soil health, and he has introduced horses to the vineyard, using them to work the soil rather than heavy machinery. He believes this allows a connection directly to the chalk, essential to the quality of grapes produced and for maintaining ecological balance.
Benoît’s expertise and delicate touch in the vineyards are highly regarded within the Champagne vigneron community. Even Krug has enlisted his skills to cultivate their Ambonnay Pinot Noir grapes. His cuvées and designated vineyard sites serve as exquisite representations of terroir. Timeless, ground-breaking, and expressive, these wines provide exceptional value, unmatched purity, and outstanding quality which reflects the unique characteristics of their specific plots.
The 2016 Avize Cramant Grand Cru is 100% Chardonnay from the two villages Avize and Cramant, and this cuvee represents the characteristics of these specific plots. The wine achieves a compelling balance of structure and grace, with notes of citrus, ginger and a touch of vanilla. It is a Champagne of real purity and a complex mouthfeel.
The Shaman 19 Rose Grand Cru is a blend of 76% Chardonnay and 24% Pinot Noir from 2 unique terroirs, Ambonnay and Bouzy. It offers a powerful, distinct style. There is a striking nose of nectarine, grapefruit, with a pronounced flinty complexity and an exceedingly long finish.
Whilst his methods are far from conventional, as are his wines, they sit amongst the top rated, and most expressive in the region.
View all wines from Champagne Marguet here
Christian Gosset
In 2015, Christian Gosset set out to work on a personal project focused on the great terroirs of Ay. With a long family history in Champagne, Christian decided to step out and make his own mark on the industry.
He crafts a range of expressive champagnes, focused on quality above all else. His style is aromatic, powerful and structured, with a thread of precision and intensity. He uses Pinot Noir vines with a high average age (45 years+), and his vineyards are in prime location, atop hills with south-westerly exposure, with varying altitudes and soils and therefore diversity of terroir.
The A04 Brut Grand Cru Champagne is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. The nose is very open, showing citrus peel, yellow flowers, bread and hints of anise. The palate is invigorating and balanced, and the liveliness is rounded off by a discreet dosage and creamier texture.
The 2019 Loiselu Grand Cru is 100% Pinot Noir, based around the old vines which are at the very centre of Gosset’s enterprise. There is a rich and intense nose of wheat, almond and brioche with subtle yellow fruit, bergamot and violet. The palate is initially gentle, then opens to become denser, rich and generous with a chalky, explosive finish that lingers. It truly is Grand Cru Pinot Noir at its finest.
View all wines from Christian Gosset here
Why not try for yourself and taste the diverse styles we have on offer?