The Institute of Masters of Wine
The Annual Bordeaux Tasting
2010 Vintage　

5th November 2014
Vintner’s Hall, London

A colleague uttered at lunch, rather out of the blue as if compelled to do so, a statement which succinctly summed up the mornings activity…”that was the best tasting I have ever been to!”

It’s hard to disagree with him. For my part, 2010 Bordeaux has re confirmed itself as the finest young Bordeaux vintage I have had the pleasure of assessing.

Exactly 100 Chateaux were represented at the Masters of Wine Annual Claret Tasting at the very grand Vintners Hall, unfortunately the allotted hour and forty-five minutes was nowhere near enough to do them justice. So ensued a race to taste and assimilate the sheer quality of as many of these beauties as possible.

The Right Bank revealed an early synopsis, with Pomerol shining through over St Emilion, Particularly La Conseillante (96) and La Fleur Petrus (95). Both were fresh, pure and brilliantly balanced. The former was particularly refined and elegant.

A quick visit to the Pessac Leognan table supported my earlier perception that this commune could be recognised in time as one of the highlights of the vintage. Smith Haut Lafitte (95+) and La Mission (97+) are really exciting.

Chateau Palmer (95+) was eclipsed by a wonderful Chateau Margaux (97+), which is no shame. Haut Brion (99) lived up to La Mission and even showed a little extra dimension, in fact it shared the day’s high score alongside Mouton Rothschild – both these wines were just flawless.

Lafite (98) was less overt than the other first growths but the underlying class and obvious longevity are unmistakable. Cheval Blanc (98) reminds me of the stellar 1998, incredible purity, concentration and balance.

Outside the Medoc first growths, there are some inspirational wines. Leoville Lascases (97) was less convincing on the nose but expressed an unforgettable palate. Leoville Barton (96) was almost as good just lacking the merest touch of finesse. The Poyferre was a little reticent and I feel could reach an even higher potential. Lynch Bages (95) & Grand Puy Lacoste (95) were stylistically very different but equally promising, the GPL charming and elegant, the Lynch powerful and masculine. Both Pichons were outstanding, the Lalande (96) exuberant even flashy but with finesse too, the Baron (97) more serious and finer. In St Estephe there was only one winner, Montrose was close to receiving the highest score. Robert Parker’s recent upgrade to 100 is understandable on this performance.

Yquem was a suitable finale, certainly not overshadowed in this company, amazing depth and tension here.

Last year’s 2009 claret vintage was a revelation but the 2010’s exude an extra freshness, they are less forced. I expected this to be hard going, labelled as a vintage with more structure, a classics long-lived year. The wines were far from it, accessible and approachable, with very few heavily extracted.

When it’s this good nothing can touch it.

The Wines

La Mission Haut Brion

Full plum depth, really impressive nose, this is a different class, aristocratic, the texture is significant. Silky weight here on the palate, this oozes quality with its ease and grace, spicy and pure, exciting stuff. Poised and very long. 97/100, drink 2020-2050.

Smith Haut Lafitte

This is very deep in colour one of the deepest, open plummy nose, perfumed. It immediately appears to be fine for the vintage, as we have come to expect from this estate. There is real grip and intensity. Really fine for me with great texture, seamless. 95+/100 drink 2018-2040.

Domaine de Chevalier

The first wine tasted from the Pessac, and directly after the Right Bank wines. Noticeably different in style, mellower, some high-toned fruit, complex and quite full on the palate. Good freshness, it’s together but not exciting on this showing. 92+/100 drink 2018-2040.

Palmer

This is very deep again, dark black fruits and garrigue coming through on the nose. The palate is very charming, rounded and seamless, fine grained tannins here. It is a calm wine, understated and a fine Palmer. Great length. 95+/100.

Calon Segur

Lovely brambly dark fruit and subtle oak edged fruit on the nose, bready too. This is fresh and refined, a leaner style than the Montrose, elegant and fine even so. 94/100 drink 2020-2040+.

Cos D’Estournel

Really deep colour, the nose is very intense, concentrated fruit up front, this is riper than the Montose and certainly the Calon. This is a fine Cos for sure, but maybe lacks a bit of definition in the freshness. Time will tell. 94/100 drink 2020-2040.

Montrose

This is a dark brooding purple, beautiful blackcurrant intensity; this is singing, very modern in style. It’s hard to accept such copious fruit from Bordeaux, but this is one of the all time finest vintages, and there is freshness along side, not at all jammy. Silky tones with ripe spicy tannins. This is really brilliant winemaking and one of the vintages finest for me on this showing. I was impressed with the 2009 but I suspect this might turn out even more magical. 98/100 drink 2020-2050.

Leoville Barton

Very deep purple, a meaty almost Bovril nose, with a minty intensity, the proportions here are impressive, a profound palate, really dense fruit. Complex. It only lacks a touch of finesse to challenge the finest. This is an outstanding Leoville Barton and a strong recommendation in the value front. 96/100 drink 2022-2050.

Leoville Lascases

There is an extra dimension here, which I have found with the best wines. A really beautiful bouquet second to non for me, so St Julien, earthy gravelly, cedary tones with bright fresh black and red fruits. The palate is really fine too, lovely texture and poise, it’s not at all forced, just glides across the tongue. This has magical balance and epitomises the class of this vintage. 98/100.

Leoville Poyferre

This is very deep, lovely and light on its feet despite its colour, vibrant, there is a salty intensity here, to the super silky fruit, a polished remarkable wine with great potential. 95/100 drink 2020-2045.

Grand Puy Lacoste

As usual this is not as deep in colour as some of the Pauillacs, there is that signature lovely silky texture, the fruit overrides the considerable structure. It’s decadent but refined, a remarkable result again. This is great value, and worth every penny. 95/100 drink 2018-2035.

Lynch Bages

Very deep robe, with a promising, intense nose here, there is evident depth with lovely texture to the mid-palate. As always there is a monolithic, masculine character here, but this is a very fine Lynch Bages. I would expect the 2009 vintage to have offered the preferable conditions for this estate, but on this showing I’m not so sure. 95/100 drink 2022-2050.

Pichon Baron

Very deep purple, pronounced eucalyptus and yeasty, toasty notes, real elegant feel, precise pure fruits with a lightness to it, not all heavy, solid structure on the finish, stylish and really fine again. 96/100 drink 2020-2045.

Pichon Lalande

Very dark colour, viscous, dense and brooding black fruits on the nose, perfumed and complex, there is a certain delicacy here, packed with concentrated fruit but it handles it so well, great balance and great length. 96/100 drink 2020-2045.

Beausejour Becot

Deep purple, lovely intense blueberry nose, with earthy, gravelly notes, inky too, bright generous fruit. Good zip and texture. Really focussed construction. Fine potential. 94/100 drink 2018-2035.

Clinet

Nicely deep, appears ripe and developed on the open nose, concentrated fruit, vinous and silky charm, the mid-palate is a little less exciting than expected; it drops off a little, but fine potential. 92/100 drink 2017-2030.

La Conseillante

Not quite as deep as the above, the nose is tighter, less evolved, this has real breed, a layered palate keeps you searching underneath, cool textured fruit. This is long and lovely, very fine like a racehorse. 96/100 drink 2020-2040.

La Fleur Petrus

This is paler still, very ripe nose, open and intense, with cakey notes, quite lovely, cool again, this is just delicious juice, so tasty. Great, silky texture, this is very harmonious on the fish. Really classy. 95/100 drink 2018-2035.

First Growths

Angelus

This is almost Black, very concentrated here, almost liqueur like on the palate, very ripe and round, the extreme concentration deters from the delicacy slightly, big, fine textured, massive extraction here leaves a mildly gritty finish. It’s a bit disjointed presently but the potential is there. 93/100 drink 2020-2040.

Cheval Blanc

Nice and deep in colour, the nose is very deep too, the fruit here is brilliantly defined, very pure, you almost get transported back to the cellar, it’s intoxicating. This is a power house, with a spicy character and soy, it’s so complex. This just sits unravelling calmly on the palate. Reminds me of the 1998. An extra-ordinary wine, in with a shout for wine of the vintage. 98/100 drink 2020-2050.

Haut Brion

Deep plum, this is racy on the nose, a complex concoction, inky, exotic, plummy, very ripe fruit. Again the texture is here as with the Margaux, the quality just screams at you. There is an extra level of intensity here, great and spice box on the finish, it just goes on and on…. 99/100 drink 2025-2050.

Lafite

This is deep in colour, the nose is reduced compared to some, the palate weight is lovely, delicate, this is structured too, but not overly, it sits calm and develops slowly. This is brooding like a sleeping dragon, watch it evolve over 40 years. Fine grained tannins, enormous potential. 98/100 drink 2030-2050.

Margaux

Not as deep as the Palmer or the other fist growths. Fine nose with an oaky edge, the terroir comes through on the engaging nose, almost salted popcorn, very concentrated. The delicacy here is instantly noticeable, it flows along like a sailing boat. Very long cedary perfumed finish. 97/100 drink 2015-2050.

Mouton Rothschild　

This is very deep in colour, the nose offers an intensely exotic, oaky edge, really vibrant and exciting. Savoury notes too with deep blackcurrant, this is the most extroverted of the first growths. The palate is very silky, calm and brooding, it finishes with an extra-ordinary balance. An almost Burgundian purity here, there is so much to come. A simply brilliant Mouton, I would be surprised if there is one with more potential. 99/100 drink 2030-2050.

Yquem

This is very tight on the nose, touch of coconut sweetness coming through. Very intense, precision weight here, there is a wonderful tension, it’s wound up, a great wine, orange zest on the finish refreshing the concentrated sweetness. A great Yquem. 98/100 drink 2020-2060.