Puligny Montrachet is probably the finest White Wine in the world. Last night We were treated by MP to a very insightful seven wine flight, which successfully revealed the character and identity of several of these revered vineyards, as well as study of one vintage, 2008, and one grower Domaine Sauzet.

The wines showed very well overall and in general escalated in interest as we went. The first and definitely the best value, the villages won lots of praise. The Garenne the first of the Premiers Crus less so, Mike immediately unable to hurdle its high acidity, in general the balance of the villages was preferred. The Referts won Dave’s heart and caused quite a buzz of appreciation. The Champ Canet was a notch up again, a cerebral wine and the most Puligny for me. The Folatieres was a bad bottle unfortunately. Combettes is an old favourite and it shone brightly, it soon had MP & CG mesmerised. The success of the evening was highlighted by the fact that the Chevalier Grand Cru was unanimously recognised as the finest of the flight,  I think it also identified the honesty and brilliance of the 2008 vintage to portray clearly the traits of the respective terroirs, as well as underlining Domaine Sauzet’s skill in helping to achieve this goal.

Thanks Mark, the magnum of 2002 Champagne Palmer Blanc de Blancs also went down extremely well at the Redforte with the poppadoms. A great night.

The Wines

2008 Puligny Montrachet Sauzet 

The colour is clear and bright, pale gold. Nice touch of vanillin, you can smell the new oak as if in Sauzet’s cellar, lemon peel, pear, touch of spice, wood sap, the palate is quite zippy, creamy, good intensity, this is a real beauty, lovely balance. Perfect now. Long for villages.

92/100, drink 2015-2019.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne Sauzet

Very pale gold again, the nose is less oaky, touch of honey and rubber, touch of cream, complex nose, the palate is a little disjointed in the balance with a touch of astringency which shows up more obviously on the second visit. It lacks a little ripeness so you are left admiring, justifiably, the long mineral finish. Initially I thought it might improve with an extra year or so but I am not so sure on revisiting. I think this is a bit forced to attain Premier Cru level.

91/100, drink 2015-2019.

2008 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Referts Sauzet

This is calm and pure Chardonnay, a relatively subtle nose, with a touch of green olive, tropical nuances, biscuity and buttery, not overpowering at all, richer on the palate than the Garenne and definitely more balanced, the zip runs through the heart beautifully. A composed long finish. This is fine. It lacks the detail of the finest Premiers Crus, but it is still a classy wine.

93/100, drink 2015-2020.

2008 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet Sauzet

The nose here is a tangent again, this has depth, honeyed tones, but it is quite reserved on the nose, the palate is linear, great tension, the precision here is grand cru level, there is plenty of substance, but it’s a different shape to the Referts it’s finer, leaner even, a more serious wine and will evolve for a while yet, very fine. Of the premier crus this is the most authoritative and perhaps closest to grand cru level.  

94/100, drink 2015-2023.

2008 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres Sauzet

This is slightly deeper, the nose is sweeter, and honeyed, it is perhaps a little premox, with a baked slightly maderised nose,  short and uninspiring in this range.

88/100.

2008 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes Sauzet

Pale gold and gleaming. On the nose you can envisage the richness of a Meursault, this is quite open and generous but still Puligny with its composure. There is a touch of almond and coconut identifying the ripeness here. The palate is creamy textured, with plenty of veuve and citrus into the spicy fennel tinged finish. This is stylistically a cross between the serious Champ Canet and fun loving Referts. Best of both worlds. I favoured the style of the Champ Canet but really just splitting hairs, and going back to this for a second time it had opened up beautifully. The length again is admirable, there is a hint of steel right at the end, this could shape up even better in a year or so.

94/100, drink 2015-2022.

2008 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru Sauzet

This is slightly more youthful colour wise. The nose is a revelation, it’s hard to keep up with the complexity, it is surprisingly confident for Chevalier, so rich almost edging towards botrytis, nutty, petroleum, spicy with a touch of orange. The palate is generous, but quiet, just hold it in your mouth and let it dance, so delicate and fine, it rides the palate, caressing gently. The finish is exciting. Awesome length, the subtlety here is at an extra level you can see why this is Grand Cru. It is drinking now for me, but will undoubtedly evolve and improve further with a year or two more in the bottle, and will drink well for another decade.

96/100, drink 2015-2025.