John Salvi, who was instrumental in bringing Hubert to tutor this year’s Master of Wine’s First Growth tasting, explained that we were privileged to receive one of Bordeaux’s most influential wine men. The Seventh generation proprietor of Chateau Angelus began his dedicated life’s work in 1980, taking the reins in 1985.
Monsieur de Bouard, talked candidly and incredibly modestly. Now on his 35th vintage, he described himself as primarily a farmer rather than a wine maker. Given his first pair of secateurs at the age of just 7, he soon found where his heart was – at its most peaceful, amongst the vines.
Hubert’s incredible knowledge and enthusiasm has seen him take on several other successful international winemaking ventures, in Lebanon, Spain, Italy, South Africa and Thailand. His consultancy work within France is formidable and he has been active within several wine governing bodies in St Emilion and Bordeaux, including INAO and the UGC.
It is, however, surely the success of the family estate under his tenure which is most remarkable. Promoted in 1996 to Premier Grand Cru and then again in 2012, to join the rank and file of Bordeaux’s greatest Right Bank wines, Cheval Blanc and Ausone as First Growth Class A.
The Wines
Hubert explained that though the Merlot grape is dominant in percentage terms it was is in fact the Cabernet Franc which is the Signature of Chateau Angelus. He fell in love with the 15 hectares on the estate, 10 of which are over 50 years old. 25 years would be a minimum to show the required dimension in the grand vin. It thrives in warm vintages with an inate ability to naturally moderate alchohol. It prefers a soil with less clay than the Merlot, quoting the difference between the two great a Pomerols of Petrus(100% Merlot on clay) and Lafleur(60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc). “This is a grape variety that is black and white either brilliant or hopeless. You have to crop it low, with Cabernet Sauvignon you can make decent wine at 40 or 50 hl/ha, not with Cabernet Franc, 30 hl/ha at most.
As a proud pupil of the irreverent Emile Peynaud he talked about seeking harmony, and quoted Emile poignantly. ‘When looking for a house there are three important requirements: Location, Location and location. When you are intent on making a fine wine again you should look three components, harmony, harmony and harmony.
2012 celebration bottle with gold. Upgrade and Stephanie next generation and 20 years renovation completed.
2012
Nice deep plum, salty intensity, and inky here, very classic, promising, earthy concentration. The palate is really quite silky and seductive, nicely harmonious, plenty of freshness with good ripe tannins. I like the pretty style here though it is serious will be a fine Angelus. 2020-2035 93-95/100
2011
Very deep more Merlot, touch of red fruits even strawberries here on the nose, nicely perfumed, quite lovely, rhubarb hints, freshness? More uniform, quite pure, fruity, this is open and more evolved than the 2012, its vivacious and exciting needs a couple of years will be delicious. 2017-2030 92-94+
2010
Very deep here, almost black, beefy, nutty and animal notes on the nose, spicy with a touch of alchohol(15%!), inky and tight, good weight here fresh, and inky, fine tannins, there is lots of quality elements, very long, beef on the finish, great longevity here. There is a tightness of grain here which is reflected in the finish 95-97/100 2022-2040+ Hubert prefers this classic style and balance over the more immediate 2009.
2009
Again very deep, maybe not quite so bright. The nose is pure, not as broad, coffee, very little coming through compared to the 2010, the palate is exciting, there is already charm here seduction will drink earlier. There is savoury to complement the black fruits, with earth too. 94-96/100? 2020-2040+
2008
Deep plum starting to soften at the rim, intense perfumed nose, a complete elegant concoction, quite savoury with beef extract and blood, vanilla hints and warm Asian spice, touch of almond, generous texture, good sweetness and the harmony shows, the finish is soft with earthy fine grained tannins. This is medium weight will drink in 3 years and certainly live for 20 yrs, balanced and fine. 93-95/100 red fruits on the nose after. 2018-2035+
2007
Looks deeper plum, more Merlot perhaps. Strict with lead pencil, inky, good blackcurrant character too. Attractive and pure. Again good texture, elevated freshness, perhaps a bit more power here, not quite so elegant and complex but there is charm. It’s not singular with bright flavoured fruit. Will be delicious again in 2 years. 2017-2030 92-94/100 going back coffee on the nose very pleasant. easy drink maybe too much oak(toast) high PH low acidity?
2006
Very deep here, the fruit is intense and there is s feeling of freshness on the nose, very rich with chocolate, mint and smoke really plenty to talk about on the nose, the palate is silky, with good weight, it is quite heavy on the extraction and the freshness is less apparent, spicy, with beef extract and horse hair, it is a little disjointed on the palate I feel maybe needs time. This is again reflected on the finish which is s bit flat. Savoury. 93-95/100 2018-2030+ going back there is chinese influence with Kung po sauce, the nose is really good, this has depth brawn too there is nuance, ripeness there are drying influences but the power is admirable.
2005
Deep plum to the rim, starting to orange, the nose here is really impressive, very complex, and there is an extra intensity, ripeness without doubt, a lovely fresh fruit cocktail, with hints of marzipan, some toast, deft touch on the palate, exotic texture, very fine dusty tannins, juicy effect on the palate, it’s still a solid block fragmenting slowly, with minty spice nuances, really an exciting wine for the estate. 2017-2040+ 96-97/100
2000
Still a deep colour, right to rim with some obvious oranging, the nose is similar to the 2006 very soy, seems a bit overripe? Bovril, cafe, palate, it sensuous with a lovely texture the tannins now evolved, gives the fruit component top table, glides into a deliciously composed finish, attractive and ready to drink. Really quite lovely pa late, hinting at where the others will be particularly the 2005. Long and satisfying. 95/100 2020-2045