Bordeaux En Primeur: In the Balance…

Nickolls & PerksBordeaux, En Primeurs, New ReleasesLeave a Comment

The uneasy and disconcerting rhetoric pre-2024 Bordeaux en primeur tastings is certainly justified, with growing conditions as damp as the market. Despite this, some very bright, elegant, pretty and exceptionally well-balanced wines have been produced. These are wines of classicism, with lower alcohols, wines that will provide almost immediate drinking pleasure together with ample ability to age. Positively, we expect the châteaux owners to provide a much-needed price incentive.

Careful consideration and selection will be essential in this campaign to pinpoint estates which were fortunate enough to largely avoid the worst of the indiscriminate climatic onslaught and equally had the means to strip back the crop to only the very best fruit. The team at N & P are confident in our early assessment, and we will be bringing those releases to your attention over the next couple of months.


The Growing Season

Bordeaux winegrowers were forced to endure extremely challenging conditions in 2024, a vintage that resulted in the highest levels of rainfall since 1992 and indeed the lowest average yield since 1991.

Following a mild and very wet winter, bud break occurred in early April, aided by sunny conditions that advanced the beginning of the growth/vine cycle. Ongoing rainfall in the form of heavy showers then led to the first signs of mildew, which appeared from the third week of April onward. This was a huge challenge for wine growers in 2024, one that persisted in the vineyards up until the end of August.

“Mildew hit us in March and resulted in a 40% loss on Merlots.” – Kathinka Wittusen – Public Relations and Heritage Departments – Domaine Clarence Dillon

A rainy May with minimal sunlight ensued, and vignerons continued to face significant challenges. Flowering occurred much later than usual and was uneven, taking place under damp conditions, resulting in coulure (shot berries) and millerandage (irregular fruit set). The Merlots were particularly affected.

“Flowering was a problem; it took six weeks as opposed to ten days, which is the norm.” – Mael LeBreton – Engineer in Viticulture & Oenology – Château Cheval Blanc

Despite the weather and vine health improving at the beginning of the summer, sporadic storms encouraged further spread of mildew. By the end of July, warm and dry conditions finally prevailed, facilitating the gradual onset of veraison (the colour change in the grapes), which in some cases extended deep into August. This signified the end of the mildew threat, a huge relief for all winemakers, and by the end of the month, following another period of pleasant weather interspersed with storms, a renewed sense of optimism emerged.

“The quality occurs once veraison begins. Before this, it was all about quantity, so we needed the good weather that came in August.” – Guillaume Thienpont – Technical Director at Vieux Château Certain & Le Pin

September experienced cooler and wetter weather than usual, interrupting the ripening of the grapes and in certain cases encouraging the development of botrytis. The harvest was a relatively late one, two weeks later than the 2023 harvest, for example, with merlots harvested around September 20th under varied conditions and most of the cabernets harvested shortly after, benefiting from more favourable conditions until mid-October.

“We harvested from 20th September to 5th October.” – Romain Jean-Pierre – Technical Director – Château Figeac

“We had to harvest fast due to the incoming rains. L’Eglise Clinet was harvested from 21st – 28th September, with the Merlots harvested in just two to three days, which is very fast.” – Noemie Durantou-Reilhac – Manager and winemaker – Château L’Eglise Clinet

“Botrytis was a problem for the Merlots. We lost 15% to botrytis. Fortunately, our technical director, Pierre Montégut, has been technical director of Suduiraut since 2004, so he knew exactly how to deal with potential botrytis development and pick at the optimum time. Without this knowledge it would have been far worse” – Pauline Gibert – US Sales Director – AXA Millesimes


In the Vineyard

The challenging growing season in 2024 resulted in heterogenous ripening. We felt a sense of relief among many winegrowers who had been subjected to a relentless barrage of hurdles to overcome. In a bid to combat mildew, coulure and millerandage, those that had the means green harvested to relieve disease pressure and aid the ripening of grapes and estates practicing regenerative winemaking were able to offset the excessive down pours with cover crops, preventing erosion, supplying nitrogen and aerating soils which aided drainage.

“Cover crops were cut back to prevent humidity and disease pressure. This helped us battle mildew. In fact, 70% of our losses were down to coulure and 30% down to mildew.” – Eloi Carrié – Research and Development Manager – Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Organic practicing châteaux, who are restricted in the number of products they are allowed to use in the vineyard, struggled to control mildew and were forced to spray Bordeaux mixture (a copper-based fungicide) up to 25 times throughout the cycle.

Despite these measures, to bring in suitably ripe fruit, drastic selection in the vineyard had to be undertaken, cutting out unripe parts or whole bunches. Many estates lost up to half of their crop.

“Yields at Pavie were down to 24 hl/ha. Sorting in this vintage was crucial and has allowed us to produce a great vintage, but we had to lose a lot of the crop.” – Joseph Barre – UK Brand Ambassador – Château Pavie

“We were down to 20 hl/ha.” – Nicolas Glumineau – GM & Winemaker – Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

“There was a mixture in yields. Some plots were 50 hl/ha, some were 20 hl/ha. Average yield was 30 hl/ha.” – Sébastien Vergne – Estate & Technical Director – Château Margaux


Terroir & Soils

The finest terroirs of the region allowed their vines to mitigate the challenges posed by its marginal and maritime climate, not only producing healthy fruit, but healthy fruit in abundance. Châteaux with limestone and blue clay soils were blessed. For example, Ch. Angelus, Ch. Canon, Ch. Figeac and Ch. Lafite Rothschild. Those with a lesser terroir really struggled in 2024, and faced the threat of waterlogged soils, in turn promoting high disease pressure and eventually poor-quality fruit.

“Average of 38 hl/ha across Angelus and Carillon. The root systems combat vintage conditions. Old vines, 40 – 60 years old, with the oldest 100 years old, helped control conditions and ultimately the yields.” – Coline Marcenac – PR Manager UK – Château Angelus

“We are very lucky as the limestone plateau acts as a great moderator for water. Limestone releases water when the vine doesn’t need it. If we didn’t have this prime terroir, it would have been a very difficult vintage… There was extensive sorting in the vineyard throughout the year, so our 40 hl/ha was a great surprise for us as mildew was a problem.” – Axelle Araud – Director of Wine Development at Château Canon, Rauzan-Segla & Berliquet

“Final yield was 31 hl/ha and this is after a big sorting. It was 36 hl/ha when the grapes were brought to the winery.” – Romain Jean-Pierre – Technical Director – Château Figeac


In the Winery

As well as facing challenges in the vineyard, vignerons had to contend with potential complications in the winery. Further sorting was necessary to filter out any water-bloated or other undesirable grapes, with many opting to use densimetric baths which separated grapes based on their sugar density.

“Certain berries were huge and full of water, so we used densimetric baths to help sort the grapes. This measures the density and sugar in the fruit. Ripe berries sink. This was the key for sorting.” – Mael LeBreton – Engineer in Viticulture & Oenology – Château Cheval Blanc

“We used densimetric baths to sort the grapes in the winery.” Amandine Bidault de Gardinville – Business Development Manager – Château Laroque   

The extraction process was also of great concern to winemakers. Berries were largely thick-skinned in 2024, meaning that the margin for error was extraordinarily fine. Those that worked expediently with the fruit that they were given triumphed, extracting diligently and precisely, and were rewarded with a beautiful balance and effortlessness in their wines. Those that were too gentle or pushed extraction too far in a bid to add greater weight and concentration were left with somewhat loose, astringent, disjointed or even hollow wines.

“We always extract gently and don’t leave the juice under cap for long, usually around 9 days, but in this vintage, we reduced it to 6 days to avoid any harsh tannins and maintain balance.” – Noemie Durantou-Reilhac – Manager and winemaker – Château L’Eglise Clinet

“Vinification was a very delicate and slow process, with a cool maceration.” – Raphael Reybier – CEO – Château Cos d’Estournel

Certain winemakers were so conscious of the pitfalls of over-extracting they pumped over sparingly and opted to use a percentage of the press wine in a bid to add an extra dimension and complexity in the final wine. Again, the margin for error here was incredibly fine. Too much press wine meant excessive tannins and ultimately an imbalance.

“The press wine is rich and glycerol, and we preferred adding to the primary wine to make it larger and fuller, rather than pumping over too much and risking harshness in the wine.” – Nicolas Glumineau – GM & Winemaker – Château Pichon Lalande

“We used 13% press wine in Montrose this year.” – Romain Bellone – Deputy Sales Director – Château Montrose


Style & Quality

The 2024 vintage is, of course, unique, but that does not stop it from being compared to the vintages of the past and, whilst tasting last week, we heard comparisons with 1994, 1999, 2007, 2008 and 2012. One thing that is for certain is that the Bordelais are at the forefront of agricultural and technological know-how, which in 2024 has given many the ability to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat.

With PHs and alcohols on the lower end of the spectrum and IPTs conservative, the profile of the successful 2024’s marks a return to classism and traditionalism. These are wines of a perfume, energy and authentic balance that will offer prompt enjoyment, but also structure to support aging. Wines that display and express terroir beautifully.

“IPTs of 60 – 70 are the right balance. Far away from the Parkerised wines of the 2000s, which on average came closer to 100!” – Raphael Reybier – CEO – Château Cos d’Estournel

“This vintage made me think of 2008, but today we are in a much better position.” – Nicolas Glumineau – GM & Winemaker – Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

“2024 reminds me a lot of the 1996 vintage at Lafite. It has a very similar profile, but not quite the concentration.” – Eric Kohler – Technical Director – Château Lafite-Rothschild

“This is a lighter style of Lafon-Rochet similar to the 2008 and 2012 vintages, but the fruit is more precise.” – Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen – Managing Director – Château Lafon-Rochet

During our tastings there was no appellation that clearly stood out, with 2024 being very much a heterogenous vintage throughout the entire region. That said, there was perhaps a little more consistency in St. Emilion, which we suspect is down to the limestone soils and the châteaux’ ability to manage vineyards more promptly due to their smaller-sized holdings.

To put it simply, those that had the resources and budget to be reactive throughout were able to combat the extreme growing conditions. Also, those that held their nerve with regard to the timing of picking and were prepared to sacrifice a large proportion of their crop in a bid to produce the best possible wine in the conditions allowed.

“We are very happy; every time we taste it is better and better.” – Romain Jean-Pierre – Technical Director – Château Figeac

“Tough game, great score.” – Noemie Durantou-Reilhac – Manager and winemaker – Château L’Eglise Clinet

“We are very happy with the result. The quality of the terroir is speaking in this wine.” – Mael LeBreton – Engineer in Viticulture & Oenology – Château Cheval Blanc and Quinault l’Enclos

“We know the quality of this wine.” – Axelle Araud – Axelle Araud – Director of Wine Development at Château Canon, Rauzan-Segla & Berliquet

“Montrose 2024 is like an iron fist in a velvet glove. A serious Montrose.” – Romain Bellone – Deputy Sales Director – Château Montrose

“Terroir, will and means was the key to making this vintage a success.” – Pauline Gibert – US Sales Director – AXA Millesimes

“Out of 2022, 2023 and 2024, 2024 is closest to my preferred style of drinking.” – Coline Marcenac – PR Manager UK – Château Angelus


The Market

It is no secret that the fine wine market is in a state of flux. With global economic instability due to ongoing geopolitical uncertainty, high interest rates and low demand for Bordeaux wines, there must be a true incentive for private clients and merchants to take part in this years en primeur campaign.

Having spoken to several Chateaux owners, commercial directors and technical directors, the Bordelais understand the state of the market and we’ve been told by many that a sincere effort will be made in this campaign to motivate and encourage all involved.

We believe that the 2024’s should be priced at least 10% lower than their respective 2021 vintage market prices. At this level there is value. If in our opinion certain releases do not present some form of value, we will choose not to offer.

A short and speedy campaign is expected this time around, with the first key wine scheduled to be released on the morning of Wednesday 23rd April (Château Pontet-Canet). If you are finding it difficult to choose from the upcoming releases or would like some advice, please don’t hesitate to get in touch; the team at N&P will be very pleased to help.


Top 10 for quality

Will’s Picks

Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan – 95-97/100

The nose is a bit coy with honey and lime hints, touch of basil, the palate has good volume, with plenty of lemon and salinity on the finish which trickles along nicely. It feels all in place and tightly wound, cool texture, mineral, spice even. Stays in the mouth so easily, harmonious. Great purity in 2024, potentially one of the great vintages for this Tour de Force. 2029-2045+

L’Eglise Clinet, Pomerol – 95-97/100

Ver deep Plum colour, this is much more serious, with restrained dark berry fruit notes and red fruit coming through on the nose, even strawberries, and violet, there is concentration and purity on the aromatics. The texture and mid-palate is much more in tune here than at many addresses, very silky with a sleak unwinding tension, finishes together and very long. This is one of the vintage’s highlights for sure and very successful for the property. 2030-2050+

Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac – 94-96/100

Very deep colour. The nose is quite closed and four square, with hints of cedar, crushed stone, mint, and floral perfume, a restrained and serious nose, this is a sizeable block on the palate, immediately super density, layered, with lots of dusty earthy notes coming into the finish. The fruit is matching the substantial structure, really quite impressive impact here, this has proportion and balance, one of the left bank’s key wines for me in 2024. This will need some patience. 2037-2060+

Figeac, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 94-96/100

Impressively deep purple, the nose is impressively complex initially throwing up menthol tinged new oak, lactic, patisserie, this is very open almost California-like, very floral, on the palate the texture is impressive, it’s got that allusive mid-palate density, this is a serious block, chewy, good grip and length, the freshness is pronounced with a sweet strawberry red fruit profile. You can feel the drastic selection and the prime Cabernet Sauvignon has paid dividends putting it potentially the commune’s top dog in 2024. 2033-2055+

Pavie, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 93-95/100

Nicely deep purple, lovely aromas of deep rich berry fruit, new wood nuance, elegant, the palate is calm and full of rich flavour too, lovely tension here, lots of freshness and mineral notes, great saline length here too on the finish, lovely limestone signature. Very long for the vintage, this is right at the top of the Saint Emilion tree, as it should be. 2035-2055+

Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe – 93-95/100

Very high Cabernet Sauvignon this year. Very full colour, profound nose, restrained but elegant, very pure, cassis spice, the palate is very tense, very round with super grip, great balance here, good complexity, on the finish this is very fine for the vintage. Fine tannins great acid balance. 2032-2060+

Château Valandraud, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 92-95/100

This is super deep, high octane nose, peppery, very concentrated, certainly mineral, chocolate, this is a darker profile than most, indicating extended extraction. The palate is very cool, the texture is hyped with increased tension too. Bitter notes on the finish like a Negroni, I like this it is very long. Undeniably pushed in 2024, but it does feel like it’s in tune. One to try in bottle. 2034-2055+

La Mission Haut Brion, Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan – 93-95/100

Pretty deep purple here, full colour, very classic Cabernet nose, with lovely perfume, floral, very elegant and serious nose, the palate is very saline with great depth, the freshness is impressive with lots of spice, this is pitched very well and the finish hums along beautifully. This feels like it has excellent potential. Lovely metallic irony finish. Great tension. Satisfying lovely gentle spice on the long finish. This is fine for the vintage and just eclipses Haut Brion for me in 2024. 2034-2055+

Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol 93-95/100

Full deep plum, this initially has quite a pronounced blackcurrant leaf aroma on the nose, nice grilled note too, earthy, perfume, spice, the palate is quite textured red, good freshness, juicy, covers the mouth nicely, peppercorns, red fruit cocktail on the nose, and on the finish. Pretty lush. There is a little more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than usual. 2033-2055+

Lascombes, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux – 93-95/100

This b is very deep in colour, markedly so in this line up.Cacao concentration here, very savoury, touch of prune, malty, a powerful concentrated nose to match the colour. This is surprisingly refined on the palate, a massive improvement with Axel Heinz at the wheel, feels almost out of place in this vintage line up, creamy texture, the fruit is still firing, waiting for an aggressive hit, but the tannins are filigree. Brilliant result. My highest score in the commune in 2024. 2035-2060+

Callum’s Picks

L’Eglise Clinet, Pomerol – 95-97/100

A very energetic and vibrant nose, with aromas black cherry, blueberry, raspberry, and kirsch unfurling out of the glass followed by sweet spice, tobacco, ginger nut, popcorn and clove. A complex, precise and layered nose. The palate is super fresh and mineral, with vibrant yet silky blue fruit at the core that rests effortlessly on filgre tannins. The finish is long with a savoury minerality note present. The togetherness and tension in this wine is admirable. Such elegance and ultimately balance. A candidate for wine of the vintage, no doubt. 2032+

Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac – 94-96/100

Classic Lafite nose, dark in profile with detailed aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, damson and cassis and anise gently unfurling from the glass, followed by cinnamon, sweet spice, cigar box, ceadr, graphite and black olive. Complex. The palate is fresh, full and super silky, with earthy, cool black fruit gliding across the palate effortlessy, resting on the notable yet fine tannic structure. There is an impressive tension and harmony here and a midpalate concentration that transcends the vintage. The finish is very long with a savoury and anise spice persisting. A classic, serious and confident Lafite. Wine of the vintage? 2040+

Figeac, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 94-96/100

A seductive, perfumed nose with lots of violet and peony laden strawberry raspberry and mandarin fruit unwinding from the glass, followed by milk chocolate, toast, mint and balsamic. Sophisticated. The palate is fresh and full in texture (unusually so for the vintage), with ample creamy strawberry and raspberry fruit at the core. There is a high level of tension and togetherness here that is lacking in most with the fruit covering exceptionally silky tannins. Excellent balance. The finish is long with a savoury toast flavour continuing on and on. An excellent effort in this vintage. 2035+.

Pavie, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 94-96/100

Particulary deep and dark in colour. An expressive nose with perfumed black cherry and plum fruit coming through, followed by kirsch, clove, orange peel, milk chocolate and sweet spice. A complex and very attractive nose. The palate is lively with the cool black fruit gliding across the palate with easy, resting on a very fine and silky tannic structure. This is a harmonious and ultra well balanced Pavie. The finish is long with a savoury toast flavour persisting. 2035+

Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe 94-96/100

An alluring nose, with earthy and spiced black berry, black currant and black cherry fruit gently unfurling from the glass, followed by sweet tobacco, almond and smoke. The palate offers a vibrant acidity and a silky texture, with well concentrated black fruit at the core harnessed by a fine tannic structure. Wonderfully balanced and harmonious. The finish is long and savoury. One of the wines of the vintages, again… 2030+

Cheval Blanc, St Emilion – 93-95/100

Enticing nose with black cherry fruit leading the way, followed by anise, cocao, earth and then kirsch. Think black forest gateau Multi-faceted. Vibrant, rich, complex. The palate is super fresh with silky textured dark fruit gilding across the palate. There is weight here and tension. A very serious Cheval Blanc, with a dark profile on the palate. Tannins are present but ripe and well covered by the mid palate fruit. There is power and elegance here and ulitmately balance. The quality of the terroir comes through in this vintage. 2035+

Canon, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 93-95/100

A very bright and vibrant nose, lots of citrus, black cherry balsmic and minerality that is coming from tne limestone terroir, followed by roses petals, cocoa, vanilla, black olive and anise. Very complex with an impressive energy. The palate is also vibrant, with silky black cherry fruit underpinned by an exciting energy at the core. The tannic structure is very fine. This is a very well balanced and tensile wine. The finish is creamy followed by a savoury spice. 2030+

Château Valandraud, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 93-95/100

Vigorous black currant and bramble fruit on the nose followed by nuanced aromas cassis, licquorice, sweet tobacco and well integrated oak. Complex. The palate offers an electic acidity with impressively concentrated and glossy merlot fruit that rests on filigre tnnins. A very silky and seductive texture with superb tension and togetherness. The finish is long with a blackcurrant jam on toast flavour lingering. The best wine at the St. Emilion UGC. Excellent. 2033+

Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol – 93-95/100

You can smell the rare addition of Cabernet Sauvignon on the nose, lots of earthy and herbal black currant, black berry fruit, followed by anise, tomato leaf and then perfume; lilac and lavendar. The palate offers an impressive intensity with the lively black cherry fruit prominent resting effortlessy on the fine yet powerful tannins. Great tension and togetherness here. The finish is very long with saline, minerality persisting. 2032+

Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac – 93-95/100

This nose is fantastic, the most complex of the tastings so far (day 3)! Lots of sweetly spice black currant, black berry and damson fruit unwinds from the glass, followed by tobacco, black tea, sweet toast, hazelnut, turkish delight and mocha. Typically Mouton. The palate is fresh with a silky texture. Black currant and black cherry fuit at the core that rest on very fine tannins. The finish is long and savoury. This is a notably elegant and delicate Mouton. 2035+


Top 10 value picks

Will’s Picks

Grand Puy Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac – 91-93/100

Medium full plum colour, often paler than some, certainly high toned red fruit here, very fresh and enticing, pure, the palate is successfully ample, not aggressive, tannins are soft, but this has plenty of everything. Promising GPL, hits the mark again in this difficult vintage. 2032-2050+

Laroque, Grand Cru Classé, St Émilion – 90-92/100

This is nicely deep, the nose is quite open, nice plummy notes, increasing here, there is good spicy grip on the back of the palate, the minerality is obvious, this puckering almost fizzes on the palate with salty minerality . This is a big estate with plenty of super limestone terroir to sort from. This must be one of the Right Bank’s best value properties and it certainly shows in 2024. 90-92/100 – 2030-2040+

Moulin St Georges, Grand Cru Classé, St Émilion – 89-91+/100

Medium full plum colour, not particularly deep, the nose is quite detailed, there is a nice cinder note alongside the calm red fruit profile, strawberry, this is a step up in the stable and the first sign of obvious success in 2024. It sits nicely, on the palate chewy with charm, solid in terms tension here, too, keeps you engaged before the structure takes over. Quite Burgundian. Long grip. It is a great result and very good value for the vintage. 2028-2040

La Dominique, Grand Cru Classé, St Émilion 90-92/100

Very deep purple, the nose here is very open with good peachy fruit, red fruit too. this is cool on the palate with good freshness, a big effort here, pushed extraction a bit but working well for me very good for the room. An estate on the rise for sure. 2031-2050

La Petite Église, Pomerol – 91-93/100

Good deep purple. A really absorbing nose, with deep perfume, and rich black berry fruit. Lovely pure juice on the palate, salty, this is really very fine, at this level. Impressive stuff, almost ready to drink now. Noemie’s wines are really impressive this year. 2028-2040

Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Leognan – 91-93/100

Medium full plum, the nose is quite open, floral, good spice, nice and complex, mineral, the palate is cool and poised here, unfolds nicely, is subtle and balanced, feminine, I like the elegance here this year, it is not pushed at all, very natural gentle elevate. 2032-2045

Pedesclaux, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac – 90-92/100

Deep colour, the nose is quite closed, earthy profile. Inky perfume, good volume in the mouth, high acidity good cassis fruit, and classic earthy Pauillac notes, really quite sexy stuff. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked up until 7th October. The ripeness is impressive. This estate continues to improve under the Loronzetti stable. A success for recharge and a relative value. 90-92/100 – 2031-2045

Lafon Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe – 89-91/100

Medium full plum colour, this is nicely poised on the nose, with attractive pure berry fruit, quite restrained. The palate is reasonably full with ripe tannins, and a satisfying mouth feel, there is a delicate extraction here. Well made and reliable as ever. We enjoyed the 2016 the previous evening, good value here. 2030-2045

Larrivet Haut-Brion Rouge, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Leognan – 90-92/100

This looks a touch deeper than some of the Pessac-Leognans, full plum, more extracted maybe, more grille, oak? Darker profile, the palate is very fresh with good generosity, this has a little more depth, more complete, lingers. Good grip but doesn’t lose its shape and balance. Surely one for the value list. 2030-2040

Montlandrie, Cotes de Castillon – 90-92/100

This is quite dark, creamy morello, the palate here is very vibrant, the Cabernet gives it a lift, the dusty tannin, on the finish gives it an extra tension, like this. There is brilliant energy here at this level, brilliant value in 2024. 2029-2040

Callum’s Picks

Grand Puy Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac – 92-94/100

A classic Pauillac nose. Earthy black cherry, black currant and cassis unwind out of the glass, followed by graphite, cedar, pencil shavings and orange zest. Cool black fruit elegantly glides across the palate in unison with the acidity and finessed tannic structure. Very well balanced. The finish is long and toasty. This is a lighter style of GPL, but one of real elegance and togetherness. A very good effort in this vintage. 2030+

Les Cruzelles, Lalande de Pomerol – 90-92/100

A Seductive nose with lots of black cherry, black berry and blue berry fruit aromas jumping out of the glass, followed by kirsch and creamy cocoa. Very black forest gateau! The palate is super fresh, with plenty of blue fuit at the core to balance the classic yet fine tannic structure. The finish is long with a savoury toast flavour persisting. An excellent effort in this vintage. “A taste of l’Eglise Clinet from a different terroir.” 2029+

de Fieuzal, Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan – 90-92/100

A very vinbrant nose, with earth infused red and black cherry coming through, followed by vanilla, mint and balsamic. Suave. The palate is fresh and elegant with layered creamy and savoury laden red fruit floating on the delicate tannic structure. Very elegant and well balanced. Great value. 2029+

Rauzan Ségla, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux – 93-95/100

A very perfumed nose with lavender, violets and peonly unwinding out of the glass followed by black currant, plums, cocoa, black pepper and a creamy, blue berry muffin note. Very complex, very Margaux. The palate is fresh with ample savoury black cherry and blue berry fruit at the core. Tannins are ripe and well covered. The finish is long with a saline, cocoa powder flavour evident. This is a well proportioned and well strutured wine that should offer outstanding value in this vintage. 2035+

Pedesclaux, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac – 90-92/100

A classic Pauillac nose. Earthy black currant and black berry aromas unfurl out of the glass, followed by leather, pecil shavings, tobacco, mint choc chip, black olive and smokey bacon. Classic and complex. The palate is fresh and mineral, with marked black fruit at its centre. Very elegant, with the tannic structure fine. The finish is long and savoury. This is classic Pauillac and will offer fantastic value in this vintage. 2031+

Malartic Lagravière, Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan – 91-93/100

Nice energy on the nose with red and black cherry, plum, raspberry, earth and toast coming through followed by tomato leaf and then a fruit cake note. An attractive nose. The palate offers an electric acidity with sweet and silky red fruit complimented by a well integrated tannins. A savoury toast flavour persists on th back. This is a very elegant, well balanced and together wine. Not overdone or overworked. This will surely offer excellent value. 2031+

Laroque, Grand Cru Classé, St Émilion – 90-92/100

Excellent energy in the nose with lots of perfumed red fruits bouncing out of the glass; rasperberry, strawberry, morello cherry. On orange peel and clove spice comes next. You can really feel the minerality of the limestone terroir on the nose. As with the nose, the palate is fresh and energetic, with ref fruits once again leading the way. This is a lighter styled and very elegant Laroque that actually reminds me of a baby Ausone in terms of it’s delicacy. Almost Burgundian in style. The finish is long with a saline minerality persisting. 2030+

La Gaffeliere, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion – 92-94/100

Darker in style than most at the UGC with earthy black fruit prominent, followed by licquorice, soot and even coal. After a little more coaxing perfume notes appear such as violets and rose. Turkish delight. A complex nose. The palate is fresh with well concentrated and textured red and black berry fruit that cover the round tannins. The finish is long and savoury. Another very good wine from La Gaffeliere, a property on the up. 2032+

Gruaud Larose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien – 92-94/100

One of the more darker profiled wines from St. Julien with lots of perfumed black fruits coming through such as black currant, black berry, damson, followed by figs, dried fruits, sweet oak and tobacco. The palate is fresh, silky and elegant with fresh black berry fruit resting on a silky tannic structure. There is tension here and ulitmately balance. The finish is long and saline. A very good job in this vintage, a wine that tood out form me at the St. Julien UGC. 2035+

Château Léoville Barton, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien – 92-94/100

An Enticing nose with lots of black cherry and raspberry coming through followed by raspberry yoghurt, stem ginger, sweet spice and mint. Focusesd. The palate is lively, with black cherry and raspberry fruit in abdundance. There is an effortlessness and elegance here that is not seen in many of the wines. Tannins very fine. Finish long and mineral. This is focused and confident Leoville Barton that will provide lots of pleasure in the medium term. A very good effort in this vintage. 2035+

Nickolls & PerksBordeaux En Primeur: In the Balance…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


8 − six =