Tasting Date 4th July 2010

The complexity of Italian wines brings fear and trepidation to the most seasoned professional so the temptation to play it safe and  show some of the well known names such as Chianti, Frascati and Barolo must have been strong. After a  cautious start in the shape of our Prosecco Spumante DOCG Conegliano E Valdobbiadenne  Ca Moulin (£13.80), James Baker, not one to shirk a challenge, decided to use this opportunity to test some unrecognisable grape varieties on the audience’s palates.

In fact it turned out the name of the grape variety of the popular Italian fizz had recently changed. Once named after the village of Prosecco near Trieste where it is thought to have originated, since 2009 it would be called the rather dull sounding ‘Glera’.  This move was motivated by the desire to create a regional protection for the  best of these wines, which hale from Conegliano di Valdobbiadene which co-incidentally or not was awarded DOCG status at the same time.

Greco di Tufo 2011 Vesevo (£13.00) , made from? yes you guessed it ‘Greco’,  offered us a dry white with  clean focussed fruit, bringing comparisons with Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. A really excellent value wine well worthy of its recent Silver Medal awarded in the International wine challenge. The elevated citrussy flavours worked well with green olives on offer.

The quality of the Greco was highlighted even more for me when followed by one of my favourite Italian whites, Ca di Frati Lugana 2011 (£15.25). This wonderfully ripe fragrant and full bodied wine made from the unrecognisable Turbiana grape variety is always spot on and in the 2011 vintage it is again excellent but I felt it certainly didnt overshadow the previous wine.

Ripasso is made in the region and represents a transitional wine between the very good base wines of Valpolicella and the noble Amarone wines, some of which sell for exhorbitant prices to collectors all over the world. The fascinating vinification process involves the amelioration of the must by passing it through the press wine of the Amarone Cuvee, which adds body and compexity. This was very evident in the Valpolicella Ripasso Cortegiara 2010 (£11.99) which showed generous strawberry and black fruit concentration, plenty of supporting acidty and a little unresolved tannin, great with the sun dried tomatos. The wine flavour lingered long on the palate, a great wine to sit and sip with a classic Italian Pasta Ragu.

The Salice Salento Masseria Pietrosa 2010 (£8.85) is one of our most popular wines under a tenner, which reflects the burgeoning interest in the sun enriched wines of southern Italy. This Puligan Negromara(90%)/Malvasia Nera blend is open and generous on the palate, well balanced and not excessively alcholic at 13%. This is an attractive fruity red great to drink with or without food.

The final red was really a revalation and had many tasters expecting a considerable price tag. The Beneventano Anglianico Vesevo Campania 2009 (£10.50) made from the Anglianico grape variety showed wonderfully dense rich blackcurrant fruit, smoky and minty nuances with a touch of eucalyptus. Though full bodied it was not at all heavy and would work very well with full flavoured cheeses and red meet dishes.

Considering the relatively everyday price levels I came away feeling Italy will take some beating in the value for money stakes!!

Hope to see you at the next one!!

Will Gardener