Blanc de Blancs Masterclass
Eugene Aime Salon had a vision far from the madding crowd creating an iconic Champagne House unique in several ways. Only one Champange Cuvee from one vineyard, from one grape variety and only when the results are exceptional makes Salon the most exclusive of all Champagnes. Last Wednesday at a visit to London’s elegant Trinity House we were treated by the Institute of Master’s of Wine to several vintages along with a look at Salon’s sister estate Champagne Delamotte.
Salon’s commercial director Didier Du Pont tutored the wines, beginning with Delamotte Blanc de Blanc
Touch of lemon hue slow fine bead, deep apply nose honeyed hints, greengage and herbaceous notes, with plenty of instant fruit and charm turning to complex broad citric notes and touches of oyster on the back of the palate. Fruit from Mesnil, Oger & Avize with a low dosage and 48 months on lees. Good wine 89/100. 15% reserve wine, base wine 2003+2001 100% malolactic fermentation
2002 Delamotte Vintage Blanc de Blancs – disgorged 10/11 91/100 from bottle
Elegant nose here touch of oak, classic saline, stylish, the palate is pure and linear, lemony still very fresh. 91/100
1996 Delamotte Vintage Blanc de Blancs – disgorged 2006 from magnum
Golden hue, still quite youthful appearance. Caramac, toasty noses this has classic biscuity characteristics, again the palate is very clean and fresh, great acidity on the sides of the tongue, snaps of lemon and honey, really lovely length here. Perfect now still wound but letting its personality out now. Delicious. 93/100
1985 Delamotte Vintage Blanc de Blancs – disgorged 12/2000
Amazingly youthful colour here some golden hue with a touch of green. Peachy coffee notes coming through touch of apricot, acidity still apparent lacks the grip of the 1996. Creamy and apply. Think the fruit has died away a little. 90/100
Salon Vintage 1999 – disgorged 06/12 6.3 acidity
Powerful mousse, quite full colour but now over 10 years old, multi-layered nose touch of biscuit and limes, saline hints, grapefruit, the palate is powerful the mousse intense, complexity here with a powerful structure, touch of cream softens into the finish. The length is very impressive. Real extract on the mid-palate very tightly wound this will evolve further into a great Salon over many years. 94-96/100 Didier points out this wine will live for 60 years.
Salon Vintage 1997 – disgorged 09/10 8.4 acidity
Similar appearance to the 1999. More buscuit hints of caramel coming through. Tighter than the 99 on the nose, the palate is also wound and linear, great purity here, pin point acidity and balance evident on the finish. Orange peel marmalade. A great wine here 95-97
SalonVintage 1988 – From Bottle
Goldening on the appearance with an almost singular fine bead, the nose is awesome slightly stewed white peach, caramel, this has a lot of mature caramel flavours, the coffee is so expresso, biscuits with walnuts too. The fizz is delicious, apply notes here on the finish. Fully evolved excellent finish. Just showing a touch too evolved for me on the finish. Not sure this was the best bottle, some variation in the room. 93/100 going back the still wine is fabulous.
Salon Vintage 1983 – From Magnum
This from magnum with a recent disgorgement this is very youthful. Faint bead now. The nose is really beautiful here, saline oyster shell, with a citric intense zip in the heart. Smoky, rubber tyres, foxes glacier mints, this is fabulous, has the class and finesse of a fine Montrachet. The balance is perfect here a truly great evolution on this bottle . So delicate its aged effortlessly. 98/100 wow one of the finest I have ever tasted!
Salon Vintage 1976 – From magnum disgorged specially for the tasting.
Quite a full colour though seemingly no more than a 10 year old for most grand Marques, steady fine bead, liquid honey on the nose, the fruit has over-riding aromas apricot , stunning old Chardonnay nose but without the oxidation almost like a Riesling, lycheesas well, the palate is still very fresh absolutely unreal the wine is 35 years old, the acidity is cutting in to the sides of the tongue great extract. Creamy youthful palate. This seems like it still has time to go before reaching its apogee? If I hadn’t experienced it I wouldn’t have believed it!- an amazing vinous experience 98-99/100.
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Salon is released three of four times a decade the current release is the 1999, the 2002 is generally regarded as a very fine vintage in Champagne, no surprise then that Salon’s release is eagerly aticipated, expected in 2014. If you are interested in aquiring some of this great wine call Will Gardener on (0)1384 394518 or email will@nickollsandperks.co.uk