Gosset Brabant Grande Reserve…goes down well…
N&P had been awarded this ‘Celebration of French Vineyards Masterclass’ with Susy, as winners of the Wines of France competition initiated by wine trade journal Harpers. James Baker master-minded our strategy for this prestigious competition, by organising a faceoff tasting between French and New World wines, to demonstrate the quality, diversity and value coming out of French vineyards.
James & Susy enjoy a glass of Saint Joseph
For Susy it would a first visit to Nickolls & Perks though she was well aware of us from her time working with the Good Wine Guide publication. She was suitably impressed with the 16th century cellars and with our knowledge and enthusiasm.
The relative qualities of three whites followed by three reds, all previously unknown to Susy, were scrutinised and dissected in her enigmatic style in front of an enthralled audience. Susy was quick to point out the uniqueness and obvious quality of the wines on show, and to underline the benefits hence of the service offered by independents such as N&P.
The first of the whites, was a dry, aromatic wine from the noted Bordeaux White region of Graves, the custard-like aromas on the nose of the Chateau La Valiniere, according to Susy giving away its probable Semillon domination, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc in support. The extra bottle age added another touch of complexity and at £8.99 per bottle it was generally declared good value for money.
The Montagny Premier Cru Domaine Michel Andreotti was an elegant follow up, subtle up front, long on the finish, the classic style for Burgundian Chardonnay, very well put together and at a fraction of its neighbouring superstars of Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet.
The Viognier grape has been prodigious in recent years, from its roots in the Northern Rhone where it is blended in small doses with Syrah to make the great red Cote Rotie and works brilliantly as a single variety in the admirable Condrieu. Now a regular component at wineries down-under, it likes plenty of sunshine which as Susy pointed out can make the wines a bit flabby, not at all apparent in our Viognier Domaine Moulinier from St Chinian in the northern Languedoc, which showed plenty of exotic fruit countered with a lovely fresh citrus lift.
James had ordered the reds by body which interestingly showed us the most expensive first. The Volnay Vieilles Vignes Jean Jacques Girard as might be expected was probably the star of the night, beautifully balanced soft delicate red fruits on the nose and palate, light on it’s feet, a great summer red which may have been enjoyed even more had it not been monsoon-like.
As specialists we were bound to show Susy what we look for in Bordeaux. We chose the Cabernet Sauvignon dominated Chateau Aney Cru Bourgeois 2006 had the little extra bottle age which reveals the complexity and density on the palate. As Susy explained these wines are really meant to be drunk with food, the tannins much more obvious than in the Pinot Noir.
The final wine of the evening promised to be a heavy weight, with a very dense almost black colour and copious legs on the sides of the glass, in fact the Saint Joseph Sainte Epine 2009 Domaine Michelas St Jemms, a regional trophy winner in the 2011 Decanter Fine Wine awards, offered much more than brut power. Fine-grained tannins, packed with black fruits and black olive flavours with a generous mouthfeel. Once again, as Susy underlined, it would be a wine to enjoy with food, maybe rich Lamb Rogan Josh or a Cassoulet.
The diversity of the wines on show, all imported direct from the vineyards, would ultimately resonate with the diversity of individuals tastes, as all the wines, both reds and whites, found good ground support amongst the evening’s critics – just as it should be!
Will Gardener